North Yorkshire
Working farm campsite in the meadows between Muker and Thwaite
Usha Gap sits in upper Swaledale on the road between Muker and Thwaite, in what is arguably the most photographed stretch of hay meadow in the national park. It is a working farm first and a campsite second, which sets the tone: sheep in the next field, a farmhouse at the gate, and a good deal of peace. Pitching is on level riverside grass with drystone walls on most sides, and the setting under Kisdon Hill is hard to better anywhere in the Dales.
The facilities are simple but well kept. There are hot showers and a decent number of toilets, a washing-up area, a drying room for wet walking kit and a fridge-freezer for campers to use. A small farm shop on site sells local produce, milk, eggs and basic supplies. There is no electric hook-up for tourers, no swimming pool and no playground, and Wi-Fi is not a feature — mobile signal in this part of Swaledale is patchy at best. Caravans and motorhomes are accepted as well as tents. Dogs are welcome in both low and high season provided they are kept on leads, which matters given the livestock all around.
The walking from the gate is exceptional. The Pennine Way passes close by, the riverside path to Keld and Kisdon Force is a straightforward afternoon, and the climb over to Gunnerside or up onto the old lead-mining ground above the dale gives a very different landscape. Muker village, ten minutes' walk away, has a pub, a tea shop and a well-known wool shop. Come in late May or June and the meadows around the site are full of wildflowers before cutting; walkers are asked to stick to the flagged paths through them. Prices start from roughly £14 per adult per night, with reductions for children.