Brendon Hills

The Brendon Hills rise along the eastern edge of Exmoor National Park in west Somerset, a long, high ridge of heather moorland, oak coombes and sheep pasture running roughly between Wiveliscombe and the coast at Watchet. Unlike the better-known heart of Exmoor around Dunkery Beacon, the Brendon Hills see relatively few visitors, which is precisely their appeal: narrow lanes climb steeply between high hedgebanks to open moor, and from the highest ground the land falls away towards the Bristol Channel, with Wales sometimes visible on a clear day.

This was, unexpectedly, an industrial landscape within living memory. In the mid-19th century the hills were riddled with iron ore workings, and the West Somerset Mineral Railway was built to haul ore down to Watchet harbour for shipping across the Bristol Channel to the ironworks at Ebbw Vale. Extraction peaked in the 1870s before the mines closed within a couple of decades, and today the old incline, winding house and mineral line trackbed are quietly reclaimed by bracken and woodland, giving the Brendon Hills a layered, faintly melancholy character that sets them apart from the rest of Exmoor.

Top things to do in the Brendon Hills

Walking is the main draw here, but the mix of industrial heritage, water and open moor gives visitors plenty of reasons to linger.

• West Somerset Mineral Line — Follow sections of the old mineral railway trackbed and climb the dramatic gravity incline near Comberow, once used to lower wagons of iron ore over 700 feet down to the valley below; the West Somerset Mineral Line Association runs occasional guided walks along the route.
• Lype Hill — At 424 metres, this is the highest point in the Brendon Hills, with sweeping views across the Somerset countryside and out towards the Bristol Channel on a clear day.
• Wimbleball Lake — A reservoir on the southern fringe of the hills within Exmoor National Park, with a watersports centre offering sailing, canoeing and windsurfing tuition, plus trout fishing and a lakeside cafe.
• Clatworthy Reservoir — A quieter, smaller reservoir near Wiveliscombe popular with anglers, with picnic spots and short waterside walks.
• Roadwater and the Coleridge Way — This section of the long-distance Coleridge Way threads through the hills from the village of Roadwater, taking in wooded valleys and open moorland on its way towards Exmoor.
• Watchet — The old harbour town at the foot of the hills, historically the shipping point for Brendon Hills iron ore, now known for its working harbour, Wavelength gallery quarter and the Coleridge connection via the Ancient Mariner statue.
• Ralegh's Cross — A high, windswept crossroads on the moor that has long served as a landmark and staging point for walks in every direction across the hills.

Getting to the Brendon Hills

The Brendon Hills sit just off the A39 between Minehead and Bridgwater, with the village of Roadwater and the small settlement of Brendon Hill itself reached via steep, narrow lanes signposted from Washford and Watchet. Taunton, around 45 minutes' drive to the south-east, is the nearest mainline rail station, with connections onto the A358 and A38 towards the hills. The heritage West Somerset Railway steam line, which runs between Bishops Lydeard and Minehead, calls at Watchet and Washford at the foot of the hills and makes an attractive way to arrive without a car for at least part of the journey. Once in the area, a car is the practical way to explore, as bus services across the high moor are minimal and distances between villages are considerable even though they look short on a map.

Best time to visit the Brendon Hills

Late spring and summer bring long views, flowering gorse and bluebells in the wooded coombes, along with the best conditions for walking the open moorland sections. Early autumn is a particular highlight, when the heather on the higher slopes turns purple and the beech hedgebanks colour beautifully. Winter can be atmospheric but exposed; the highest lanes and moor crossings are occasionally affected by fog, wind and, less often, snow, so it is worth checking conditions before heading up onto the tops. Because the Brendon Hills are so quiet compared with central Exmoor, they rarely feel crowded whatever the season.

Where to stay in the Brendon Hills

Accommodation across the Brendon Hills tends towards farmhouse bed and breakfasts, self-catering cottages converted from old farm buildings, and a scattering of country inns, reflecting the area's sparse, rural population. Roadwater, Elworthy and Wiveliscombe all have options within easy reach of the moor, while Watchet on the coast offers a wider choice of guesthouses and self-catering properties along with easy access to the beach and harbour. Those wanting to be right up on the moor itself will find a small number of remote cottages and inns near Ralegh's Cross, ideal for walkers wanting an early start on the hills.

Food and drink in the Brendon Hills

Options are limited across the Brendon Hills themselves, in keeping with the area's sparse population, but what is there tends to be welcoming after a day on the moor. Ralegh's Cross Inn, high on the moor at the road junction of the same name, is a long-standing stop for walkers and travellers crossing the hills. Down in the valleys, villages such as Roadwater and Washford have village pubs serving simple, honest food, while Watchet and Wiveliscombe, both a short drive from the hills, offer a wider spread of cafes, pubs and restaurants for those wanting more choice.