Buttermere

Buttermere is one of the smallest and most perfectly formed of the Lake District's lakes, tucked into a deep valley in the north-western fells between Crummock Water and the high pass of Honister. The tiny hamlet that shares its name barely amounts to a handful of buildings, a church and two old coaching inns, yet the setting more than makes up for the lack of scale: steep, scree-streaked fellsides rise almost straight from the shoreline on every side, funnelling weather and light down the valley in a way that has drawn walkers and painters here for well over two centuries.

What sets Buttermere apart from its grander Lake District neighbours is its sense of enclosure. There is no sprawling town, no heavy traffic, just a working farming valley where the fells of Fleetwith Pike, Haystacks and Red Pike hem in a lake so still on calm days that it throws back an almost exact reflection of the surrounding peaks. It is this combination of accessibility and drama, a gentle two-hour lakeside stroll within sight of properly rugged mountain terrain, that makes Buttermere a favourite among people who know the Lakes well rather than just those visiting for the first time.

Top things to do in Buttermere

Buttermere rewards walkers most of all, but there is plenty to see even on a shorter visit.

• Buttermere lake circular walk — A largely flat, well-maintained path of around 4.5 miles circles the lake entirely, passing through a short tunnel blasted through rock on the western shore and giving constantly changing views of the surrounding fells; it takes most walkers two to three hours.
• Haystacks — Alfred Wainwright's favourite fell and the spot where his ashes were scattered at Innominate Tarn near the summit; the climb from Buttermere or Gatesgarth is steep in places but the 360-degree views over Buttermere, Crummock Water and Ennerdale are among the best in the Lakes.
• Fleetwith Pike — A distinctive pyramid-shaped fell at the head of the valley, with a memorial to slate quarry workers on its slopes and a demanding but rewarding ascent rewarded by views straight down onto Buttermere and Crummock Water.
• Honister Pass and Honister Slate Mine — England's last working slate mine sits at the top of the dramatic Honister Pass a few miles from Buttermere, offering underground mine tours and, for the more adventurous, via ferrata routes up the crags outside.
• Crummock Water — The larger lake immediately north of Buttermere, linked by a short stretch of the River Cocker; quieter than many Lake District waters, with its own lakeside paths and views towards Mellbreak and Rannerdale Knotts.
• Scale Force — The highest waterfall in the Lake District at around 170 feet, reached via a footpath from the western side of Crummock Water through Rannerdale.
• St James' Church, Buttermere — A small fellside church with a memorial window to Alfred Wainwright looking out towards Haystacks, installed after his death in 1991.

Getting to Buttermere

Buttermere sits in a remote part of the western Lake District, reached along narrow, winding valley roads that make the journey part of the appeal, and part of the challenge. By car, the most common approaches are via the B5289 through the Honister Pass from Borrowdale and Keswick, or via Lorton and Crummock Water from Cockermouth; both routes involve single-track sections and can be slow in poor weather or busy periods. There is no railway station within the valley itself; the nearest mainline stations are at Penrith or Windermere, from where a car or connecting bus is needed to complete the journey. Seasonal buses, including the open-top Honister Rambler, link Buttermere with Keswick and Borrowdale in summer months, and this can be a good option for visitors without a car who want to avoid the narrow roads. Parking in the valley is limited to a small National Trust car park near the village and a car park at Gatesgarth Farm at the head of the lake, both of which fill quickly on fine weekends.

Best time to visit Buttermere

Buttermere is at its most reliably beautiful from late spring through early autumn, when the fell paths are driest and the days long enough for the full lake circuit plus a fell walk. May and June often bring the clearest air and the best chance of the still, mirror-like conditions the lake is known for, before the summer school holidays bring the busiest crowds. Autumn colours across the valley floor and lower fellsides can be spectacular in October, with cooler, quieter conditions for walking. Winter visits are rewarding for experienced hillwalkers prepared for snow and ice on the higher fells, but the valley roads can become difficult in poor weather and some facilities close or reduce their hours outside the main season.

Where to stay in Buttermere

Accommodation in the valley itself is limited to a couple of historic inns and a small number of farmhouse bed and breakfasts, so booking ahead is essential, especially in summer. Nearby villages such as Buttermere's neighbour Loweswater, and the towns of Keswick and Cockermouth a short drive away, offer a much wider range of hotels, guest houses and self-catering cottages for those happy to base themselves slightly further out. Camping and caravan sites are available at Gatesgarth Farm and in the wider valley, popular with walkers keen to be on the fells at first light.

Food and drink in Buttermere

Despite its tiny size, Buttermere village has two long-standing inns that have fed and watered walkers for generations. The Fish Hotel, historically linked to Mary Robinson, the celebrated "Maid of Buttermere", serves pub food and real ale in a traditional setting close to the lakeshore. A short walk away, the Bridge Hotel, established in 1734, houses the Walkers Bar, serving homely dishes such as steak and ale pie alongside locally brewed cask ales and produce including Herdwick lamb and ice cream from nearby Sykes Farm. Neither takes reservations for casual diners, so arriving hungry after a walk rather than at the height of a busy weekend lunchtime is generally the best approach.