Carlton

Carlton is the largest village in Coverdale, one of the lesser-visited valleys of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, hidden away between the better-known dales of Wensleydale and Wharfedale. The village sits on the banks of the River Cover, a modest tributary that winds down from the high moorland at the head of the dale to join the River Ure near Middleham. With a population of a little over 200, Carlton has the unhurried, close-knit feel of a place that has changed slowly: stone farmhouses and cottages line the main street, fields are still bounded by dry-stone walls climbing the valley sides, and sheep vastly outnumber people.

The village has a long history reaching back to the medieval manor of Carlton, which historically stretched further up the dale into the separate parish of Carlton Highdale, taking in the hamlets of Horsehouse, Gammersgill, Braidley, Swineside and Woodale. Traces of that older landscape survive nearby in the earthworks of a motte, a small medieval castle mound, just east of the village. Carlton itself is now part of North Yorkshire Council, having previously sat within the Richmondshire district, and lies within the Richmond parliamentary constituency.

Top things to do in Carlton

Coverdale is walking country above all else, and Carlton makes a good, quiet base for exploring the surrounding fells and neighbouring dales without the crowds of Wensleydale.

• Walk the River Cover — a gentle valley-bottom route follows the river up towards Horsehouse and Gammersgill, with views up onto Great Haw and the open moor at the head of the dale.
• Middleham Castle — a ruined but substantial 12th-century fortress a few miles away in Middleham, where a young Richard III spent part of his childhood; well worth the short drive.
• Middleham's racehorse gallops — Middleham has been a centre of racehorse training for two centuries, and strings of thoroughbreds can often be seen exercising on the gallops above the town.
• Coverham Abbey — the remains of a medieval Premonstratensian abbey sit in the pretty village of Coverham, further down the dale towards Middleham.
• The Forbidden Corner — a quirky, maze-like folly garden near Middleham, popular with families, full of tunnels, statues and surprises.
• Aysgarth Falls and Wensleydale — a short drive over the tops brings you to the wider, more visited dale of Wensleydale, with its waterfalls, creamery and market towns.

Getting to Carlton

Carlton lies off the minor road that runs up Coverdale from Middleham, roughly ten miles from Leyburn and around fourteen miles from the A1(M) at Leeming Bar, the main road link into the Dales from the A1. There is no railway station in the dale itself; the nearest mainline stations are at Northallerton or Darlington, both requiring a car or taxi for the onward journey. Public transport into Coverdale is limited, so a car is by far the most practical way to reach and explore the village. The roads narrow and climb as they head further up the dale, so a little care is needed, especially in winter.

Best time to visit Carlton

Late spring through early autumn (May to September) gives the most reliable weather for walking the fells and exploring the wider Dales, with long daylight hours and the valley at its greenest. Early summer brings out the wildflower meadows that Coverdale is known for, while autumn colours the woodland along the River Cover. Winter can be starkly beautiful but the high roads over the tops are exposed and occasionally closed by snow, so it suits those after a properly quiet, remote escape rather than easy access to attractions.

Where to stay in Carlton

Accommodation in Carlton itself is limited, in keeping with its size, but the village and its Coverdale neighbours offer a scattering of farmhouse bed and breakfasts and self-catering cottages converted from traditional stone barns and farm buildings. Given the village's modest size, many visitors base themselves in nearby Middleham or Leyburn, both a short drive away, which have a wider choice of hotels, inns and guest houses, then explore Coverdale as a day trip. Camping and glamping options can also be found scattered around the wider dale for those keen to stay closer to the fells.

Food and drink in Carlton

The Forester's Arms is the heart of the village, its only pub, and has real significance locally: it was bought by a community group in 2011 to keep it open and in local hands after previous closures threatened it. It serves as both the village local and a welcome stop for walkers coming off the fells. Beyond the pub, options in Carlton itself are limited, and most visitors head down the dale to Middleham for a wider choice of cafes, tearooms and restaurants.