Chesterfield

Chesterfield sits on the River Rother in north-east Derbyshire, close enough to the Peak District National Park that its western streets seem to lean toward the hills. It has been a market town since 1204, when it was granted its charter, and that market heritage is still visible every Thursday, Friday and Saturday in one of the largest and oldest open-air markets in England, spread across the cobbled Market Place beneath the town's most famous landmark.

The town's industrial past runs deep too. Chesterfield grew on coal, iron and engineering, and George Stephenson, the railway pioneer, lived out his final years here and is buried in Holy Trinity Church. Today the town centre mixes handsome Georgian and Victorian buildings with the Vicar Lane and Pavements shopping centres, while just beyond the ring road the Chesterfield Canal and the wooded slopes of Queen's Park offer a much quieter pace. For visitors, Chesterfield works well both as a destination in its own right and as a low-cost, well-connected base for exploring the southern Peak District, Hardwick Hall and Bolsover Castle.

Top things to do in Chesterfield

Chesterfield rewards a slow wander, and its handful of genuinely distinctive sights are easily combined with a day trip into the surrounding countryside.

• The Crooked Spire (Church of St Mary and All Saints) — Chesterfield's defining landmark, this 14th-century parish church has a lead-covered wooden spire that twists 45 degrees and leans around 9 feet 6 inches off true, most likely the result of unseasoned timber warping over the centuries. It is the largest parish church in Derbyshire, and guided tower tours climb up towards the base of the spire on selected days.
• Queen's Park — a proper Victorian park with a boating lake, a miniature railway, play areas and open lawns, laid out around the site of Chesterfield's former football and cricket grounds. It is a popular spot for families and for a gentle stroll away from the town centre traffic.
• Chesterfield Canal — opened in 1777 and engineered in part by James Brindley, the canal's Chesterfield section can be explored on foot or by trip boat from the Tapton Lock visitor centre, with the Chesterfield Canal Trust running the John Varley passenger boat and a small museum and cafe at the basin.
• Chesterfield Market — one of the largest and oldest open-air markets in the country, trading in the Market Place since the town's 1204 charter, with a mix of fresh produce, flowers and general stalls alongside the adjoining indoor Market Hall.
• Peak District gateway — Chesterfield sits right on the edge of the Peak District National Park, with Bakewell, Chatsworth House and the Derbyshire Dales all within a short drive, making the town a practical, cheaper alternative to staying inside the park itself.
• Hardwick Hall — a few miles south-east, this Elizabethan prodigy house built for Bess of Hardwick is one of the National Trust's grandest properties, famous for its vast expanses of glass and its long gallery, and set in extensive parkland.
• Bolsover Castle — an English Heritage site a short drive from Chesterfield, this 17th-century "little castle" was built as a romantic retreat rather than a defensive fortress, with striking painted interiors and views across the Vale of Scarsdale.

Getting to Chesterfield

Chesterfield railway station sits on the Midland Main Line, with regular direct trains to Sheffield, Derby, Nottingham and London St Pancras, as well as connections north to Leeds and York. The town is just off the M1, with Junction 29 the usual turn-off for the town centre, making it an easy stop for anyone driving up from the Midlands or down from South Yorkshire. Doncaster Sheffield and East Midlands airports are both within about 45 minutes' drive, and local bus services connect Chesterfield to surrounding Derbyshire towns and Peak District villages.

Best time to visit Chesterfield

Spring and summer bring the best of Queen's Park and the canal towpaths, along with the town's outdoor markets and events calendar. Autumn is a particularly good time to combine a Chesterfield visit with the Peak District, when the moors and dales beyond Bakewell and Chatsworth turn gold and russet. Winter has its own appeal too: the Crooked Spire and Market Place look the part when Chesterfield's Christmas lights and market stalls are up, and the town is a handy, uncrowded base if the main Peak District villages are busy.

Where to stay in Chesterfield

Chesterfield's accommodation ranges from budget and mid-range chain hotels close to the railway station and ring road to smaller independent guesthouses in the surrounding villages. Staying centrally puts the Crooked Spire, market and Vicar Lane shops within walking distance, while options on the western edge of town, towards Old Whittington or Brimington, are better placed for early starts into the Peak District. Self-catering cottages are widely available in the villages ringing the town, from Ashover to Wingerworth, giving easy access to both Chesterfield and the national park.

Food and drink in Chesterfield

The town centre's dining scene has grown well beyond the traditional market-town pub in recent years, with an increasing number of independent restaurants, cafes and coffee shops earning recognition alongside the established favourites. The Market Pub, overlooking New Square, is a good example of the classic Chesterfield boozer, with a strong range of real ales, whiskies and regular tasting nights. Vicar Lane and the Shambles area combine high street names with independent cafes and tea rooms, while the twice-weekly market itself remains one of the best places to pick up fresh, local produce. For a wider choice, the Destination Chesterfield tourism team maintains an up-to-date guide to the town's restaurants, gastro pubs and coffee shops.