Coldingham

Coldingham is a small village on the Berwickshire coast of the Scottish Borders, set back from the sea on the main A1107 coast road between Eyemouth and Berwick-upon-Tweed. It grew up around Coldingham Priory, founded in 1098 by Edgar, King of Scots, on a site of Christian worship stretching back to a monastery established here in 635 by the Northumbrian princess Aebbe. The present parish church still stands within the priory's ruined walls, and the rest of the village, a scatter of stone cottages, a village green and a couple of pubs, has grown up quietly around it ever since.

What sets Coldingham apart is what surrounds it. A mile downhill is Coldingham Bay, a horseshoe of golden sand that is one of the best surf beaches on Scotland's east coast, and beyond it the fishing village of St Abbs and the dramatic cliffs of St Abbs Head. It is a compact stretch of coastline that packs in a working harbour, a nature reserve, a marine reserve and a sandy beach, all within easy walking distance of each other and of the village itself. For a place this size, Coldingham has an outsized claim on the map of the Borders coast.

Top things to do in Coldingham

Coldingham makes a good base for exploring one of the most concentrated stretches of coastal scenery in the Borders, on foot or by car.

• Coldingham Priory — The ruins and working parish church built into the remains of the 1098 Benedictine priory, with information panels on its turbulent history of Viking raids, English sieges and a Cromwellian bombardment.
• Coldingham Bay — A Seaside Award-winning sandy beach a mile from the village, popular with families, swimmers and, thanks to reliable beach breaks, surfers; there are lifeguards on duty through summer.
• St Vedas Surf Shop and surf lessons — A beachfront surf shop and school at Coldingham Bay running lessons and board and wetsuit hire most weekends between February and November, and daily through the school holidays.
• St Abbs Head National Nature Reserve — A dramatic clifftop walk a couple of miles north of the village, with wildflower-covered cliff tops, a lighthouse and, in spring and summer, thousands of nesting seabirds including guillemots, kittiwakes, razorbills and gannets.
• St Abbs village and harbour — A tiny, picture-postcard fishing harbour just along the coast, and the gateway to the St Abbs and Eyemouth Voluntary Marine Reserve, one of the best cold-water diving and snorkelling sites in Britain.
• The Creel Path — A circular coastal walking route linking Coldingham, Coldingham Bay and St Abbs, following the old path used by fishwives carrying creels of fish up from the harbour to sell inland.
• Wildlife boat trips — Seasonal cruises run from St Abbs harbour past the cliffs of St Abbs Head, giving a close-up view of the seabird colonies and the chance of seeing seals, dolphins and porpoises.

Getting to Coldingham

Coldingham sits just off the A1107 coast road, about 3 miles from Eyemouth and 8 miles north of Berwick-upon-Tweed, with the A1 a short drive inland at Houndwood or via Ayton. The nearest railway station is Berwick-upon-Tweed, on the East Coast Main Line with fast services from Edinburgh and London, from where Coldingham is around a 20-minute taxi or bus ride. Local bus services connect Coldingham with Eyemouth and Berwick, though a car makes it far easier to reach the surrounding beaches and headlands at your own pace. Edinburgh is around an hour and a quarter's drive to the north.

Best time to visit Coldingham

Late spring through early autumn is the best window, with May and June bringing wildflowers and nesting seabirds to St Abbs Head, and July and August the warmest sea temperatures and busiest surf beach. September often delivers calmer weather and quieter beaches once the school holidays end. Winter has its own appeal for a bracing coastal walk, but many seasonal businesses, including boat trips and some surf hire, wind down outside the main season, so check ahead if visiting between November and February.

Where to stay in Coldingham

Coldingham has a handful of small guest houses and B&Bs in and around the village, along with self-catering cottages, and there is more choice a short drive away in Eyemouth and St Abbs, including B&Bs geared towards divers and surfers. Camping and touring caravan sites are dotted along this stretch of coast, making the most of the sea views towards St Abbs Head.

Food and drink in Coldingham

The village has two pubs serving food, including the Anchor Inn on School Road, a traditional stop for a pint and pub classics after a day on the coast path. Down at the beach, a seasonal beach cafe serves the usual mix of coffee, ice cream and bacon rolls to surfers and sunbathers, and St Abbs harbour, a short drive or walk away, has a couple of cafes with views over the water. It is a modest but genuine choice, in keeping with a village of this size.