Glencoe

Few places in Britain announce themselves like Glencoe. As the A82 climbs out of Rannoch Moor and drops into the glen, the road is hemmed in on both sides by towering volcanic peaks, their scree-streaked flanks rising almost vertically from the valley floor. This is the remnant of an ancient supervolcano, carved and deepened by successive ice ages into one of the most instantly recognisable landscapes in Scotland, a place that has stood in for Skyfall's Scottish homeland and Hagrid's hut in the Harry Potter films, and long before that, provided the backdrop to one of the darkest chapters in Highland history.

Glencoe village itself is small, a scatter of houses, a handful of shops and a couple of hotels sitting where the glen opens out towards Loch Leven, but its setting more than compensates for its size. Within a few miles you have Rannoch Moor's wild expanse, the Mamores and Grey Corries to the north, and Ben Nevis just up the road at Fort William. The glen is a magnet for walkers, climbers and photographers, and in winter its slopes hold snow long after lower ground has thawed, making it one of the most reliable spots in Scotland for a day on skis.

Top things to do in Glencoe

The glen rewards slow travel as much as strenuous walking, though it has plenty of both on offer.

• Glen Coe valley road — the stretch of the A82 through the glen is one of Scotland's great drives, with pull-ins allowing you to stop and take in the scale of the mountains rising on either side.
• The Three Sisters — the ridges of Beinn Fhada, Gearr Aonach and Aonach Dubh, seen together from the roadside viewpoint near the Meeting of Three Waters, are the classic Glencoe photograph.
• Buachaille Etive Mor — the near-perfect pyramid of a mountain that guards the eastern entrance to the glen, sometimes called Scotland's most photographed peak.
• National Trust for Scotland Glencoe Visitor Centre — an eco-friendly centre with exhibitions on the glen's geology and the Massacre of Glencoe, a short film narrated by Rory McCann, a reconstructed 300-year-old turf house, and gentle woodland walks right outside the door.
• The story of the Glencoe Massacre — on 13 February 1692, soldiers billeted with the MacDonalds of Glencoe under orders from the government turned on their hosts in the night, killing dozens after weeks of accepted Highland hospitality. Memorials and the visitor centre exhibition tell the full story.
• Glencoe Mountain ski centre — on Rannoch Moor at the eastern end of the glen, this is one of Scotland's longest-running ski areas, with the country's longest and steepest runs, a chairlift running in summer too, and a cafe with tremendous views.
• Hillwalking and Munro-bagging — Bidean nam Bian, the highest peak in Argyll, and its neighbouring tops dominate the skyline south of the road, while the Aonach Eagach ridge to the north is one of the finest and most exposed scrambles on the Scottish mainland.
• Glencoe Folk Museum — a cluster of thatched cottages in the village housing local artefacts, Jacobite relics and displays on Highland life, run by volunteers.

Getting to Glencoe

Glencoe sits on the A82, the main road between Glasgow and Fort William, roughly two and a half hours' drive from Glasgow and around 25 minutes from Fort William. There is no railway station in the glen itself; the nearest is Fort William, connected to Glasgow by the West Highland Line, one of Britain's most scenic rail journeys, with a bus or taxi covering the final stretch. Scottish Citylink coaches running between Glasgow and Fort William stop at Glencoe village, making it accessible without a car, though a vehicle gives far more freedom to explore the surrounding glens and munros.

Best time to visit Glencoe

Summer (June to August) brings the longest days and the best chance of clear mountain views, though midges can be troublesome on still, damp evenings, especially near water and woodland. Spring and autumn are quieter, with autumn colour on the birch and rowan adding to the drama of the glen, and are often preferred by walkers wanting to avoid peak-season crowds on the main paths. Winter transforms Glencoe into a serious mountaineering destination, with snow-covered ridges and the ski centre in full operation, but conditions on the hills can turn dangerous very quickly and are strictly for those with the right experience and equipment. Whatever the season, the Highland weather is changeable, and it is worth checking forecasts and mountain conditions before setting out on anything beyond the valley floor.

Where to stay in Glencoe

Options range from traditional Highland hotels in the village to guesthouses, self-catering cottages and bunkhouses geared towards climbers and walkers. Ballachulish and Glencoe village both have a small selection of hotels with views over Loch Leven or up into the glen, while Kinlochleven and Fort William, a short drive away, offer a wider spread of accommodation including hostels and larger hotels. Booking ahead is strongly advised in summer and during school holidays, when the glen's limited accommodation fills quickly.

Food and drink in Glencoe

The Clachaig Inn, tucked beneath the Aonach Eagach ridge, is a legendary walkers' and climbers' pub with a huge range of whiskies and real ales, and has been a fixture of Glencoe life for generations. The Kings House Hotel, at the eastern end of the glen near Glencoe Mountain, is one of Scotland's oldest inns and serves hearty food to hillgoers coming off the surrounding peaks. In the village, the Glencoe Café and the Highland Coo Café at the NTS Visitor Centre are good spots for a coffee, soup or a slice of cake between walks, while Fort William, a short drive north, has a wider choice of restaurants and takeaways for evenings out.