Hinderwell

Hinderwell sits on the A174 coast road between Whitby and Saltburn, a plain-spoken Yorkshire village of stone cottages and farmland strung along a ridge above the North Sea. Its name is said to come from St Hilda's Well, a spring in the churchyard which tradition links to the seventh-century abbess of Whitby, and the Domesday Book already recorded the settlement in 1086 as Hindrewelle. Unlike its more famous coastal neighbours it has never been a resort in its own right, and that is part of its appeal: a working village with a butcher, a post office and two pubs, rather than a string of gift shops and ice cream stands.

What Hinderwell lacks in seafront drama it makes up for in position. The village stands back from the cliff edge on higher ground, giving views out over open fields to the sea, while a short walk in either direction drops down to two of the most photographed fishing villages on the Yorkshire coast: Staithes to the north and Runswick Bay to the south. The Cleveland Way National Trail passes within easy reach, linking Hinderwell into a network of coastal paths that stretch from Filey to Helmsley, and the surrounding farmland and disused railway lines add quieter inland walking for anyone who prefers hedgerows to clifftops.

Top things to do in Hinderwell

Hinderwell is a small village, but its setting between two celebrated fishing communities and the open coast means there is plenty to fill a stay.

• St Hilda's Church and Well — The parish church, rebuilt in 1773 with a tower added in 1817, stands beside the holy well said to have been blessed by St Hilda; the well itself was restored in 1912 and remains a quiet corner of the churchyard.
• Runswick Bay — A mile or so from the village, this huddle of red-roofed cottages tumbles down a steep hillside to a wide, sandy beach popular with families, rockpoolers and sea swimmers.
• Staithes — A few miles north along the coast road, Staithes is one of the best-preserved fishing villages in England, with a working harbour, narrow cobbled lanes and a long association with Captain Cook, who worked here as a young shop apprentice.
• The Cleveland Way National Trail — This 109-mile coastal and moorland path runs close to Hinderwell, offering dramatic clifftop walking towards Staithes or Sandsend without needing a car.
• Hinderwell Scarecrow Festival — Held annually, this village tradition sees homemade scarecrows appear in gardens and on verges throughout Hinderwell, drawing visitors to follow the trail and vote for their favourites.
• Runswick Bay rockpooling and coastal walks — At low tide the beach at Runswick Bay opens up rockpools and fossil-bearing shale typical of this stretch of the Jurassic-influenced Yorkshire coast.
• Whitby — A short drive south, Whitby's abbey ruins, harbour and Captain Cook Memorial Museum make an easy day trip from Hinderwell.

Getting to Hinderwell

Hinderwell lies directly on the A174 coast road, roughly six miles north-west of Whitby and around fifteen miles south-east of Saltburn-by-the-Sea and Redcar, making it a straightforward drive from Teesside or North Yorkshire. The village also has its own railway station on the Esk Valley Line, which runs between Whitby and Middlesbrough, giving a rare option to reach a small coastal village without a car. From further afield, the A19 and A171 connect through to the wider North Yorkshire and Teesside road network, and Durham Tees Valley and Teesside airports are both within an hour's drive.

Best time to visit Hinderwell

Late spring and early summer bring the best combination of settled weather and manageable visitor numbers, with long evenings ideal for the coastal walk to Runswick Bay or Staithes. July and August are busiest, particularly around the Scarecrow Festival and school holidays, when nearby Runswick Bay beach and Staithes harbour draw day-trippers from across the region. Autumn brings quieter paths and dramatic coastal light, while winter can be atmospheric but exposed, with North Sea winds worth planning around for anyone walking the clifftops.

Where to stay in Hinderwell

The village itself offers a handful of bed and breakfasts and self-catering cottages, many in traditional stone farmhouses just off the main road, while the surrounding area has a wider spread of options in Staithes, Runswick Bay and Whitby for those wanting to be closer to the water. Camping and glamping sites overlooking the coast are well represented in this part of North Yorkshire, giving an alternative to indoor accommodation for visitors who want to fall asleep to the sound of the sea.

Food and drink in Hinderwell

Hinderwell punches above its weight for a village of its size, with two well-regarded pubs on the High Street: the Badger Hounds and the Brown Cow, the latter known for its open fire, resident village cat and Sunday evening quiz. A fish and chip shop and a tearoom serve simpler daytime fare, while the village butcher and general store cater for anyone self-catering. For a wider choice, Staithes and Runswick Bay both have harbourside cafes and seafood pubs a short drive or walk away, and Whitby's well-known fish and chip restaurants are within easy reach for a bigger night out.