Llanidloes

Llanidloes sits at the meeting point of the River Severn and the Afon Clywedog, tucked into the folds of the Cambrian Mountains in Mid Wales. It has the distinction of being the first town on the River Severn, whose infant waters rise on the slopes of Pumlumon a few miles upstream in the Hafren Forest. The town itself grew up around wool and flannel weaving, and its wide streets and black-and-white timbered buildings still carry the look of a prosperous 17th and 18th century market centre, even though the mills have long since fallen silent.

At the heart of the town stands the Old Market Hall, a striking timber-framed structure raised between 1612 and 1622 where four streets converge. It is the oldest surviving market hall of its kind in Wales still standing on its original site, and its open ground floor once rang with the noise of livestock and wool traders. Beyond the town, the surrounding hills open out into some of the emptiest, most dramatic country in Wales: the vast Clywedog Reservoir, the conifer plantations and waterfalls of Hafren Forest, and mile after mile of sheep-cropped upland crossed by two of Wales' long-distance trails, Glyndwr's Way and the Severn Way. Llanidloes makes an unhurried, unpretentious base for walkers, cyclists and anyone who wants proper hill country without the crowds of Snowdonia.

Top things to do in Llanidloes

The town and its hinterland reward slow exploration, from timber-framed streets to reservoir-side forest trails.

• The Old Market Hall — the black-and-white timbered hall of 1612-22 standing at the crossroads of the town, the oldest market hall of its type still on its original site in Wales.
• Source of the River Severn — a waymarked walk into the Hafren Forest leads to the spring on the slopes of Pumlumon where Britain's longest river begins, forming the first stage of the Severn Way.
• Clywedog Reservoir and Dam — completed in 1967, the dam is the tallest concrete dam in Britain at around 72 metres, with a reservoir road and viewpoints looking out over the water and surrounding hills.
• Hafren Forest — a working conifer forest laced with waymarked trails, including the popular walk to the Severn-Break-Its-Neck waterfall and cascades.
• Llanidloes Museum — a small local museum housed in the Market Hall building, covering the town's history as a centre for the wool and flannel trade.
• Glyndwr's Way — the long-distance National Trail passes directly through the town, linking Llanidloes with Knighton and Welshpool across some of Mid Wales' quietest countryside.
• St Idloes' Church — the parish church incorporates 15th-century arcading said to have been brought from the dissolved Cwmhir Abbey.

Getting to Llanidloes

Llanidloes lies on the A470, roughly midway between Newtown and Rhayader, and is easily reached by car from the Midlands via the A483 and A470, or from mid and north Wales along the same route. The nearest railway station is at Caersws, about six miles away on the Cambrian Line between Shrewsbury and Aberystwyth, with a connecting bus service into Llanidloes; Newtown station, a little further away, is another option with more frequent services. There is no longer a railway station in the town itself — the old line closed in 1962 and part of its route was absorbed into the modern A470 bypass. Regular buses also connect Llanidloes with Newtown and Rhayader.

Best time to visit Llanidloes

Late spring through early autumn is the most reliable period, when the hill paths around Clywedog and Hafren Forest are at their driest and the long daylight hours suit walking and cycling. Summer brings the town's well-established festivals, including a long-running carnival and a folk and roots weekend that fill the streets and pubs. Autumn paints the forest plantations and the beech-lined lanes above the reservoir in colour, while winter has a bleaker, quieter appeal — the surrounding hills can see snow and the reservoir road is exposed, so it suits those equipped for proper upland weather rather than a casual stroll.

Where to stay in Llanidloes

Accommodation in and around Llanidloes tends towards small independent guesthouses, farmhouse B&Bs and traditional coaching inns rather than large hotels, in keeping with the town's modest size. Options range from period townhouses on Longbridge Street and Great Oak Street to farm-based stays out towards Clywedog and the surrounding hills, several offering the kind of hearty breakfasts and local knowledge that suit walkers tackling Glyndwr's Way or the Severn Way. Self-catering cottages are also well represented in the wider area, many with views over the reservoir or the Cambrian Mountains.

Food and drink in Llanidloes

The Great Oak Café on Great Oak Street has long been a fixture for wholefood and vegetarian cooking, with a daily-changing menu of soups, salads and home baking made from largely local ingredients. The Angel on High Street is a traditional town-centre pub serving as a good spot for a pint after a day on the hills, while a handful of other cafés and tearooms around the Market Hall cater for daytime visitors passing through on the Severn Way or Glyndwr's Way. For a wider choice of eating out, Newtown, a short drive north, offers a larger range of restaurants and takeaways.