Raydale
Yorkshire's quiet valley, gathered round a glacial lake
Raydale is one of the Yorkshire Dales' smaller, lesser-known valleys, tucked away on the southern flank of Wensleydale in North Yorkshire. Where the main dale runs broad and busy with traffic between Hawes and Leyburn, Raydale slips off quietly to the south-west, following the short course of the River Bain up towards the hills above Semer Water. It is a place of drystone walls, hay meadows and scattered farms rather than visitor attractions, which is exactly its appeal: a working Dales landscape that has changed very little.
At its heart lies Semer Water, the second-largest natural lake in the Yorkshire Dales after Malham Tarn, and one formed naturally by glacial action rather than by damming or quarrying. The lake feeds the River Bain, reckoned to be the shortest river in England at around two and a half miles from source to its meeting with the River Ure at Bainbridge. Three small hamlets, Countersett, Marsett and Stalling Busk, sit around the dale, with Bainbridge itself guarding the entrance where Raydale opens out into Wensleydale proper.
Top things to do in Raydale
Raydale rewards slow travel: walking, watching wildlife, and taking in views that get relatively few visitors compared with the honeypots elsewhere in the National Park.
- Semer Water — Yorkshire's second-largest natural lake, ringed by fells and known for its clear water, native white-clawed crayfish, and a striking show of yellow water-lily flowers in July.
- Semer Water circular walk — a popular low-level route around the lake and up towards Stalling Busk, taking in the ruined old chapel above the water and wide views back down Raydale.
- Bainbridge village and the Forest Horn — at the mouth of the dale, Bainbridge sits on the site of the Roman fort of Virosidum; the Rose and Crown pub still keeps up the ancient custom of sounding the Bainbridge Horn nightly through the autumn and winter months.
- Countersett and Marsett — two of the quietest hamlets in the Dales, both good bases for exploring the surrounding fellside on foot or by bike.
- Wensleydale Creamery, Hawes — a short drive up the dale, the working creamery and visitor centre tells the story of Wensleydale cheese, with tastings and a shop.
- Aysgarth Falls — a triple set of limestone waterfalls on the River Ure, one of Wensleydale's best-known sights and within easy reach by car.
- Dales Countryside Museum, Hawes — housed in the town's old railway station, covering the history and traditions of Wensleydale and the wider National Park.
Getting to Raydale
Raydale is reached via minor roads branching south-west from the A684 Wensleydale road, either through Bainbridge or via Countersett. The nearest towns with fuller services are Hawes, a few miles to the west, and Leyburn to the east. There is no railway station in Wensleydale itself; the closest mainline stations are at Garsdale, on the scenic Settle-Carlisle line, and further afield at Northallerton on the East Coast Main Line. From either, onward travel is by car, taxi, or limited local bus services, and a car is by far the easiest way to explore Raydale's network of narrow lanes.
Best time to visit Raydale
Late spring through early autumn is the most comfortable time to visit, when the meadows around the dale are at their best and the water-lilies on Semer Water flower in July. Walking is possible year-round, but the exposed fell paths above the lake can be wet and windswept outside the summer months, and winter days are short this far north. Autumn brings good colour to the dale's scattered woodland and the chance to hear the Bainbridge Horn sounded in the village each evening from late September.
Where to stay in Raydale
Accommodation in Raydale itself is limited to a handful of farmhouses, cottages and small guesthouses in Countersett, Marsett and Stalling Busk, along with camping and touring options near Semer Water. Bainbridge, at the entrance to the dale, has a wider choice including the Rose and Crown, while Hawes and Askrigg further up Wensleydale offer additional hotels, inns and self-catering cottages for those happy to base themselves a short drive away.
Food and drink in Raydale
The Rose and Crown in Bainbridge is the natural focal point for food and drink at the mouth of the dale, a traditional Dales coaching inn serving pub meals. Options within Raydale itself are limited, so most visitors combine a stay here with trips into Hawes, where Wensleydale Creamery's shop and café sell the local cheese, or Askrigg and Aysgarth, both of which have well-regarded pubs serving Dales produce.