Reeth

Reeth sits at the point where Swaledale and Arkengarthdale meet, its broad triangular green ringed by stone cottages, old inns and the low fells that farmers have grazed for centuries. This is the upper end of the Yorkshire Dales, wilder and quieter than the honeypot villages further south, with drystone walls climbing the valley sides and hay meadows turning gold each June. The green itself, unusually large for a Dales village, has hosted markets and fairs since the 1700s and remains the natural gathering point, overlooked by the Buck Hotel at one corner and the parish church a short walk away.

For centuries this was lead-mining country, and the scars of that industry are still written into the surrounding moors. Reeth grew rich, then poor, on the trade, and much of what visitors now come to see, the stone terraces, chapels and packhorse routes, dates from that boom. Today the village makes its living from tourism, farming and the walkers, cyclists and Herriot fans who pass through on their way into some of the finest scenery in Northern England.

Top things to do in Reeth

Reeth rewards slow exploration on foot, with the surrounding dales offering some of the best walking in the National Park.

• Swaledale Museum — Housed in a former Methodist schoolroom just off the green, this small local museum tells the story of lead mining, hand-knitting, farming and Methodism in Swaledale and Arkengarthdale, including an early 18th-century map of the dale.
• Reeth village green — One of the largest in the Dales, the green has been the site of markets, sheep fairs and the annual Reeth Show since the 18th century, and is still ringed by traditional stone inns and shops.
• Old Gang Mines — A well-preserved lead-mining landscape up on the moor above Gunnerside, reachable on foot or by bike from Reeth, with ruined smelt mills, flues and spoil heaps telling the story of the dale's industrial past.
• Arkengarthdale — The quieter side valley running north from Reeth towards Tan Hill, dotted with old mine workings and the hamlet of Langthwaite, and a favourite with cyclists tackling the Coast to Coast route.
• Skeldale House connections — A Reeth property stood in as Skeldale House in the original 1970s BBC adaptation of James Herriot's All Creatures Great and Small, and the wider dale appears throughout the books and both TV series.
• Swaledale walking routes — Riverside paths along the Swale, moorland tracks to Fremington Edge, and a stretch of the Coast to Coast path all start from or pass through the village.
• Reeth Show — Held every September on the green, this traditional Dales agricultural show features livestock, fell racing and country pursuits, and has run for well over a century.

Getting to Reeth

Reeth lies on the B6270 in Swaledale, roughly 10 miles west of Richmond and around 40 miles north-west of Leeds. There is no railway station in Swaledale; the nearest mainline stations are Darlington on the East Coast Main Line, about 16 miles away, or Northallerton, both with regular services from London and Edinburgh. From either, a car or taxi is the easiest way to complete the journey, as the dale's bus services are limited and mainly geared towards Richmond and Leyburn. Drivers coming from the A1(M) should leave at Scotch Corner and follow signs for Richmond and then Reeth; the road narrows and climbs as it enters the dale, so a little extra time should be allowed in winter weather.

Best time to visit Reeth

Late spring and early summer bring the hay meadows into bloom and the longest daylight for walking, while the Swaledale Festival of music and arts runs across the dale from late May into June. High summer is understandably the busiest period, with the moors at their most accessible and the village at its liveliest. Autumn brings the Reeth Show in September and rich colour on the fellsides, while winter is quiet and atmospheric, though some accommodation and attractions reduce their hours and the higher roads can close in snow.

Where to stay in Reeth

Options in and around the village range from traditional coaching inns on the green to farmhouse bed and breakfasts and self-catering cottages scattered through Swaledale and Arkengarthdale. Staying in Reeth itself puts walkers within easy reach of the moors and the Coast to Coast path, while nearby hamlets such as Langthwaite and Gunnerside offer a quieter base a short drive away.

Food and drink in Reeth

The Black Bull, trading since the 1680s, serves food sourced from local Dales suppliers in a traditional beamed pub setting on the green. The Buck Hotel, a former 1780s coaching inn at the top of the village, offers hearty pub food, local cask ale and a relaxed atmosphere with a pool table and open fire. The Burgoyne Hotel, overlooking the green, is known for its more formal dining and afternoon teas, and the village also has a handful of tea rooms and cafés for walkers refuelling between routes.