Upwaltham

Upwaltham is barely a place at all in the conventional sense: a Grade I listed Norman church, a couple of farmsteads and cottages, tucked into a dry chalk valley on the A285 between Chichester and Petworth. The 2001 census counted just 25 people living here, and little has changed since - this is the South Downs at its most quietly rural, a landscape of open downland, beech hangers and grazing sheep rather than shops or pubs.

What draws visitors is the setting rather than the settlement. Upwaltham sits within the South Downs National Park, close to the chalk ridge that carries the South Downs Way, and within a short drive of Chichester, Petworth and Arundel. The surrounding hills - Upwaltham Hill, Sutton Down and Bignor Hill - are laced with public footpaths and bridleways, including a stretch of the Monarch's Way, the long-distance trail tracing Charles II's escape route after the Battle of Worcester in 1651. It is a base for walking and quiet exploration rather than for nightlife or attractions on the doorstep.

Top things to do near Upwaltham

Most of what there is to see lies within a few miles, spread across the South Downs and the market towns that ring them.

• St Mary the Virgin, Upwaltham - a tiny Grade I listed Norman church built around 1120, one of only a handful in West Sussex to retain its original apsidal chancel; the building has barely changed shape since it was built.
• Bignor Hill - a high point on the South Downs Way a few miles east, with sweeping views across the Weald and down towards the coast, and the site of Toby's Stone, a small memorial near the summit.
• Bignor Roman Villa - a large excavated Roman courtyard villa near Bignor, celebrated for some of the most complete and intricate mosaic floors found anywhere in Britain.
• Petworth House and Park - a National Trust property a few miles north, with an outstanding art collection and a deer park landscaped by Capability Brown.
• Chichester Cathedral - the medieval cathedral in Chichester, around eight miles south, with its distinctive detached bell tower and Marc Chagall stained glass window.
• Goodwood Estate - home to horse racing, motorsport and the South Downs' highest point on its land, a short drive to the south-east.
• South Downs Way - the National Trail runs along the ridge above Upwaltham, offering some of the best walking and cycling in southern England.

Getting to Upwaltham

Upwaltham lies directly on the A285 Chichester to Petworth road, about five miles south-southwest of Petworth and eight miles north of Chichester, making it an easy drive from both towns and from the A27 coastal route. The nearest railway stations are at Chichester and Pulborough, both roughly 20 minutes away by car, with regular services to London and along the south coast. There is no public transport running through the hamlet itself, so a car is the practical way to get here; the South Downs Way and connecting bridleways also make it reachable on foot or by bike for those approaching along the ridge.

Best time to visit Upwaltham

Late spring and early summer bring the downland into its best form, with wildflowers and skylarks on the surrounding hills and long daylight hours for walking. Autumn is equally rewarding, when the beech woodland that pockets this stretch of the Downs turns colour and the paths are quieter. Winters can be atmospheric but muddy underfoot on the chalk tracks, so sturdy boots are essential outside the summer months. Because Upwaltham has no facilities of its own, visits tend to be built around a walk or a drive through, with a stop in Petworth or Chichester either side.

Where to stay near Upwaltham

With no accommodation in the hamlet itself, visitors base themselves in the surrounding towns and villages. Petworth, a few miles north, has a range of period inns and bed and breakfasts in its Georgian streets, while Chichester to the south offers a fuller choice of hotels alongside its cathedral, theatre and Roman city walls. Villages such as Duncton and Sutton, both close to Upwaltham along the A285 and its side lanes, have smaller guesthouses and pubs with rooms, putting walkers within easy striking distance of the South Downs Way.

Food and drink near Upwaltham

Upwaltham itself has no pub, café or shop, so eating out means a short drive along the A285. The Cricketers at Duncton and the Badger at Coultershaw are traditional country pubs on this stretch of road, while the Anglesey Arms at Halnaker is a well-regarded dining pub a little further towards Chichester. Petworth's town centre has a good spread of independent cafés and restaurants, and Chichester offers the widest choice, from casual cafés around the cathedral to more formal dining in the city centre.