Wharfedale

Wharfedale is one of the longest and best-loved of the Yorkshire Dales, carved by the River Wharfe as it flows south from the remote moorland of Langstrothdale Chase, through Upper Wharfedale's scattered stone villages, down past Grassington and Bolton Abbey and on towards Ilkley and the Wharfe's eventual meeting with the River Ouse. The name itself comes from an old Celtic word meaning "twisting, winding," a fitting description for a river that loops and doubles back through a valley of hay meadows, drystone walls and pale limestone scars.

The character of the dale changes as you travel through it. In the upper reaches around Buckden, Kettlewell and Hubberholme the valley is narrow, quiet and ringed by high fells such as Buckden Pike and Great Whernside, popular with walkers and cavers exploring the limestone country around Kilnsey. Further south the dale broadens out around Grassington and Burnsall, with wooded riverbanks, packhorse bridges and the tea rooms and independent shops that make this stretch a favourite day out. By the time the Wharfe reaches Bolton Abbey, the valley softens into parkland and ancient woodland, home to the ruined priory that gives the estate its name. Much of Wharfedale falls within the Yorkshire Dales National Park, and the whole valley is protected for its landscape, wildlife and traditional hay meadow farming.

Top things to do in Wharfedale

From ruined priories to limestone crags, Wharfedale packs a huge variety of Dales scenery and history into one valley. Highlights include:

• Bolton Abbey — the ruined 12th-century priory sits beside the River Wharfe amid 80 miles of estate footpaths, woodland walks and riverside picnic spots, with the famous stepping stones across the Wharfe right beside the ruins.
• The Strid, near Bolton Abbey — a narrow, fast-running gorge where the wide River Wharfe is squeezed into a channel only a few feet across; spectacular to look at but notoriously dangerous, so best admired from the marked paths.
• Grassington — Upper Wharfedale's liveliest village, with a cobbled market square, independent shops, cafes and pubs, and the Grassington Festival of music and arts held every summer.
• Linton Falls — the largest waterfall on the River Wharfe, a short walk from Grassington, with a restored hydro-electric weir and footbridge giving good views of the falls.
• Kilnsey Crag — one of the most dramatic limestone cliffs in the Dales, a magnet for rock climbers, with the Kilnsey Show held beneath it every August featuring fell races, show classes and country sports.
• Kettlewell and Buckden — classic Upper Dales villages beneath Great Whernside and Buckden Pike, both good bases for walking and within easy reach of Langstrothdale and Hubberholme.
• Yorkshire Dales National Park walking routes — Wharfedale offers everything from gentle riverside strolls around Burnsall to serious fell walks, and forms part of the Dales Way long-distance path.

Getting to Wharfedale

Wharfedale sits in North Yorkshire, roughly between Skipton and Ilkley. The A59 and A65 give access from Skipton, which is well served by the Leeds–Settle–Carlisle and Airedale rail lines and by regular buses running up the dale to Grassington and Kettlewell. Ilkley, at the southern end of the dale, has its own railway station with direct trains to Leeds and Bradford, from where the M1 and M62 motorways connect to the rest of the country. Bolton Abbey lies just off the B6160, a few minutes from the A59, making it an easy stop for visitors driving up from Leeds, Harrogate or further afield. Parking is available at Bolton Abbey, Grassington and most of the villages further up the dale, though spaces fill quickly on summer weekends.

Best time to visit Wharfedale

Late spring and early summer bring the dale's hay meadows into flower and the fells at their greenest, while long June and July days suit walking and cycling on the higher routes around Kettlewell and Buckden. Autumn colours the woodland around Bolton Abbey and Strid Wood, and the crowds thin out, making it a good time for a quieter visit. Winter can be atmospheric, with frost on the limestone scars, though some upper-dale roads and paths become exposed in bad weather, so it suits shorter, lower-level walks around Grassington and Burnsall rather than high fell routes.

Where to stay in Wharfedale

Grassington makes a good base for exploring Upper Wharfedale, with a range of pubs, guesthouses and cottages within walking distance of the market square. Kettlewell and Buckden suit those wanting to be closer to the high fells and quieter villages further up the dale, while Bolton Abbey and Burnsall are well placed for the wooded, lower stretches of the valley and for day trips towards Skipton or Ilkley. Self-catering cottages are plentiful throughout the dale, and campsites and caravan parks cluster around Kettlewell, Grassington and the Bolton Abbey estate.

Food and drink in Wharfedale

Grassington's square is home to several cafes and pubs, including the long-established Grassington House, while the Devonshire Arms at Bolton Abbey and the Bull at Broughton are well known Wharfedale coaching inns offering good food and local ales. Kilnsey Park, beside Kilnsey Crag, has a farm shop and cafe alongside its fly-fishing lakes, and villages such as Kettlewell and Burnsall have traditional pubs serving hearty, walker-friendly menus. Look out for Wensleydale and other Yorkshire cheeses, and locally brewed ales from Dales breweries, on menus throughout the valley.