Ely

Ely rises out of the Cambridgeshire Fens like an island, which is more or less what it once was. Before the Fens were drained in the seventeenth century, this small city stood on genuinely raised ground above miles of marsh and open water, and its cathedral has been visible for miles around ever since, earning the nickname the "Ship of the Fens". Today Ely is one of England's smallest cities by population, with fewer than 21,000 residents, yet it carries the weight of thirteen centuries of religious and civic history within a compact, walkable centre.

The cathedral dominates every view, its famous octagon tower an engineering feat rebuilt after the original Norman crossing tower collapsed in 1322. Beneath it, narrow lanes lead down towards the River Great Ouse, where a working quay, converted maltings and waterside pubs give the city a gentler, more domestic scale than its skyline suggests. Oliver Cromwell lived here as a young man collecting tithes, and his former house on St Mary's Street is now the only Cromwell museum in the country. Markets, independent shops and a strong tradition of eel fishing, from which the city likely takes its name, round out a place that feels lived-in rather than preserved behind glass.

Ely also makes an efficient base for exploring the wider Fens, from the RSPB reserves at Welney and Wicken to the university city of Cambridge, a short train ride to the south. Its flat surroundings, quiet lanes and riverside paths make it a popular spot for cyclists and walkers as much as for those drawn purely by the cathedral.

Top things to do in Ely

Ely rewards a slow visit, and most of its sights sit within a ten-minute walk of one another.

• Ely Cathedral is the obvious starting point, and its Octagon Tower Tour climbs into the roof space for a close look at the medieval carpentry holding the lantern aloft.
• Oliver Cromwell's House recreates the domestic life of the future Lord Protector and his family during their decade in Ely, alongside displays on the wider Civil War period.
• The Stained Glass Museum, housed within the cathedral itself, is the only museum in Britain devoted entirely to stained glass, spanning medieval panels to contemporary work.
• Ely Museum occupies the city's former gaol and covers local history from prehistoric fen finds to the eel trade and the draining of the marshes.
• Ely riverside and Jubilee Gardens line the Great Ouse with moored boats, waterside pubs and a Sunday antiques and craft market during summer months.
• Babylon Gallery, next to the river, hosts changing exhibitions of contemporary art and craft in a converted maltings building.
• Wicken Fen National Nature Reserve, a short drive or cycle from the city, protects one of the last remnants of undrained fenland, complete with a working wind pump and grazing Highland cattle.
• Ely Market fills the square on Thursdays and Saturdays with local produce, and expands into a general market on Saturdays, giving a good sense of the working town beyond the cathedral precinct.

Getting to Ely

Ely sits on a well-served rail junction, which makes it an easy city to reach without a car. Direct trains from London King's Cross take around one hour fifteen minutes, run jointly by Great Northern and Thameslink services heading further north to Peterborough or King's Lynn. Greater Anglia trains connect Ely to Cambridge in around fifteen to twenty minutes, making it a realistic day trip from the university city, and also run onward to Norwich, Ipswich and King's Lynn. Peterborough is roughly twenty-five minutes away by train, useful for connections onto the East Coast Main Line.

By road, Ely lies just off the A10 between Cambridge and King's Lynn, with the A14 a few miles south linking to the A1(M) and M11 for routes to London, the Midlands and the east coast ports. The city centre has several pay-and-display car parks, including ones close to the station and near the river at Cresswells, and short-stay parking on Market Street; none of the central car parks are large, so arriving before mid-morning helps at weekends and in summer.

The nearest major airport is London Stansted, around forty-five minutes' drive or a train change via Cambridge, while London Luton is roughly ninety minutes by road. A small general aviation airfield operates just outside Cambridge but has no scheduled passenger services.

Best time to visit Ely

Spring brings the Fens to life, with the RSPB reserves at Welney and Ouse Washes busy with breeding wading birds and the cathedral grounds filled with daffodils and blossom; it is also a quieter time to visit before the main summer crowds arrive.

Summer is Ely's busiest season, with the riverside at its most sociable, longer opening hours at the cathedral and museums, and events including the Ely Folk Festival and the summer antiques market by the river. Long, flat cycling routes out into the Fens are at their best in this settled weather.

Autumn thins the crowds while keeping mild conditions for walking and cycling, and the changing light over the flat fen landscape around the city is particularly striking. The Ely Eel Festival, usually held in spring, and various harvest-season food events reflect the area's agricultural rhythms.

Winter suits those who want the cathedral largely to themselves; Ely's Christmas market and the cathedral's candlelit carol services and Christmas tree festival are genuine highlights, and a crisp, still day over the frost-covered Fens has its own quiet appeal, even if some fenland reserves are wetter underfoot.

Where to stay in Ely

The city centre, within a few minutes' walk of the cathedral and Market Street, suits visitors who want to step straight out into the sights, with boutique hotels and coaching inns occupying converted historic buildings.

The riverside and Waterside area offer a quieter, more residential feel, close to the quay, moorings and waterside pubs, and appeal to those who want an evening stroll along the Great Ouse rather than a city-centre bustle.

Just outside the centre, villages such as Stuntney, Littleport and Wicken provide a more rural base with easy access back into Ely by car or bike, and often suit longer stays, families or anyone travelling with dogs.

Food and drink in Ely

Eel has been Ely's defining local food for centuries, and though wild eel is far scarcer than in the past, it still appears smoked or in traditional recipes on several menus around the city, particularly during the annual Eel Festival. The surrounding Fens also produce excellent asparagus, soft fruit and root vegetables, which turn up on seasonal menus at restaurants such as The Old Fire Engine House, a long-standing restaurant and gallery near the cathedral known for straightforward English cooking using local, seasonal ingredients.

The riverside is well stocked with pubs serving fenland ales alongside pub classics, and Peacocks Tearoom on Waterside has built a strong local reputation for its extensive tea list and home baking in a characterful Georgian building. Ely's Thursday and Saturday markets are good places to pick up local cheese, bread and produce, while the Saturday general market widens the range further. For a more formal meal, several of the city's boutique hotels run their own restaurants open to non-residents, making dinner bookings worthwhile even for visitors staying elsewhere.