Eastbourne

Eastbourne sits on the East Sussex coast at the point where the gently rolling South Downs drop away into the sea, forming the great white wall of Beachy Head just to the west. The town itself is a long, orderly sweep of Victorian and Edwardian seafront: wide promenades, immaculate flower beds, a bandstand that still hosts brass bands in summer, and a pier that has stood, in one form or another, since 1872. It was laid out deliberately in the nineteenth century by the Duke of Devonshire's estate as a genteel resort, and that planned, spacious feel has never quite left it, even as the town has grown to include a working marina, a university campus and a livelier, younger population than its old reputation as a retirement town suggests.

What sets Eastbourne apart from other south coast resorts is how quickly the seafront gives way to open downland. Within a few minutes of leaving the pier on foot, the South Downs Way climbs onto the cliffs and the town disappears behind you, replaced by grass, gulls and a sheer two-hundred-metre drop to the Channel. That contrast, manicured Victorian resort on one side, wild chalk coastline on the other, is the main reason people keep coming back. Add in some of the highest recorded sunshine hours in the country, a genuinely good art gallery, and a calendar that runs from international tennis in June to an airshow in August, and Eastbourne earns its place as more than just a stopover on the way to Brighton.

Top things to do in Eastbourne

Eastbourne rewards a slow visit as much as a busy one, with plenty to fill a long weekend on the seafront and beyond.

• Beachy Head is the highest chalk sea cliff in Britain, reached by a clifftop walk or a short drive, with sweeping views along the coast and a lighthouse standing offshore below.
• Eastbourne Pier is a restored Victorian pleasure pier with a domed pavilion, kiosks and an amusement arcade, and remains the visual anchor of the seafront.
• Towner Eastbourne is an award-winning contemporary art gallery on Devonshire Park, holding a notable Eric Ravilious collection alongside changing exhibitions.
• The Seven Sisters and Cuckmere Haven, a short drive west, offer one of the most photographed stretches of English coastline, with chalk cliffs rippling along the shore above a meandering river valley.
• Devonshire Park hosts the Eastbourne International tennis tournament each June, a traditional Wimbledon warm-up, as well as a Victorian theatre and winter garden.
• Sovereign Harbour Marina, at the eastern end of town, is one of the largest marinas on the south coast, with restaurants, a cinema and moorings to wander around.
• The Redoubt Fortress is a circular Napoleonic-era fort near the seafront, now home to military history displays and a walkable rampart.
• Airbourne, Eastbourne's free airshow held over several days each August, draws large crowds to the seafront for Red Arrows and historic aircraft displays.

Getting to Eastbourne

Eastbourne railway station has direct services from London Victoria taking around 90 minutes, run by Southern, with additional connections via Lewes for those changing from Thameslink routes through central London. From Brighton, direct trains take roughly 30 minutes, making Eastbourne an easy day trip or onward journey for anyone already on the Sussex coast. Hastings is around 30 minutes away by rail in the other direction.

By road, the A22 runs down from East Grinstead and the M25 to reach Eastbourne from London in around two hours outside peak traffic, while the coastal A27 connects the town to Brighton, Lewes and Hastings. Seafront car parks along Grand Parade and the multi-storey on Cornfield Road are the most convenient for visitors staying centrally, though prices rise in peak summer months.

The nearest airport is London Gatwick, around an hour's drive or a train journey with one change, making it the practical option for visitors flying in. London City Airport is a further alternative for those already in the capital.

Best time to visit Eastbourne

Spring brings the South Downs to life with new growth and lambing in the surrounding farmland, and the town is noticeably quieter than in summer, making it a good season for walking the clifftops in comfort.

Summer is peak season, with the Eastbourne International tennis in June, warm weather that plays to the town's sunshine reputation, and the Airbourne airshow in August drawing the biggest crowds of the year to the seafront.

Autumn is a favourite among regular visitors for its clear light over the Downs and the Seven Sisters, cooler temperatures for long coastal walks, and noticeably lower prices once the school holidays end.

Winter is quiet, with many seafront businesses operating reduced hours, but storm-watching from the promenade and off-season walks on Beachy Head have their own appeal, and the town's Christmas lights switch-on draws a local crowd.

Where to stay in Eastbourne

The seafront around Grand Parade and the Western Lawns is where Eastbourne's grandest hotels sit, within easy reach of the pier, bandstand and shops, and this is the natural choice for anyone wanting a classic seaside stay without a car.

The Old Town, set back from the seafront around the parish church and Motcombe Gardens, is quieter and more residential, suited to visitors who want a slower pace and easy access to the Downs on foot.

Sovereign Harbour, a couple of miles east, offers a different character entirely, with modern apartments and self-catering options around the marina, popular with families and anyone travelling by boat or wanting restaurants on the doorstep.

Meads, at the western end of town below Beachy Head, is the pick for walkers and cyclists heading straight onto the South Downs Way, with a village-like feel away from the busier central seafront.

Food and drink in Eastbourne

Fresh Channel seafood is the obvious local speciality, with fish and chips a seafront staple and several independent fishmongers still trading near the harbour. Fusciardi's, a long-established ice cream parlour on the seafront, has been serving Italian-style ice cream to generations of visitors and remains a fixture of any walk along the promenade.

Sussex ales from breweries such as Harveys of Lewes and Long Man, brewed a short drive from the town, feature widely in Eastbourne's pubs, alongside a growing number of independent coffee shops in the Old Town and around Terminus Road. A regular farmers' market brings Sussex produce, cheeses and baked goods into the town centre, and the restaurants around Sovereign Harbour marina cater well to an evening out by the water.