Horningsea

Horningsea has no hotels of its own, being a small riverside village rather than a visitor hub, so most people looking to stay in the area base themselves in nearby Cambridge, just a few miles to the south-west. Cambridge offers an excellent spread of accommodation, from budget and mid-range chain hotels near the station and ring road to boutique townhouses and characterful stays close to the historic colleges and river. Staying in the city puts punting on the Cam, the colleges, museums and Cambridge's restaurant scene all within easy walking or cycling distance.

For a quieter alternative, villages just outside Cambridge such as Waterbeach, Fen Ditton and Milton have a small number of guesthouses and inns, often at lower rates than the city centre while still keeping Horningsea and the riverside walks within a short drive. These spots suit visitors who want easy access to the Fens and the Cam without the bustle of the city, while still being able to reach Cambridge's attractions in fifteen to twenty minutes.

Wherever you choose to stay, Horningsea makes a pleasant half-day or full-day detour: a walk along the river, a look at the Saxon and medieval fabric of St Peter's Church, and a meal at the community-run Plough and Fleece pub, before heading back to more populous accommodation nearby.

Horningsea itself is tiny, but its riverside setting and proximity to Cambridge make it a good base for exploring the surrounding Fen countryside and waterways.

• River Cam towpath walks — Follow the Cam upstream towards Cambridge or downstream towards Clayhithe and Waterbeach, watching narrowboats, rowers and riverside birdlife along the way.
• Clayhithe — A short stroll or cycle along the river, this hamlet has moorings, a boatyard and pleasant riverside views.
• Cambridge city centre — Around five miles away, with its historic colleges, punting on the Cam, museums and markets.
• Wicken Fen National Nature Reserve — One of Europe's oldest nature reserves, a remnant of the ancient Fenland landscape, home to rare wildlife and traditional windpumps.
• Anglesey Abbey — A National Trust house and gardens near Lode, with extensive grounds, a working watermill and seasonal displays.

The village's main draw for food and drink is the Plough and Fleece, a 16th-century timber-framed pub on the High Street that has been run as a community-owned venture since 2012. It combines a traditional rustic bar with a more formal dining room, and has a large beer garden overlooking fields towards the River Cam. Beyond the village, Cambridge offers a far broader range of restaurants, cafes and pubs just a short drive or cycle away.

Horningsea sits in the heart of the Cambridgeshire Fens, a flat, watery landscape of drained marshland, dykes and wide skies that has been shaped by centuries of human effort to hold back the water. As in the rest of England, wild camping without the landowner's explicit permission is illegal here, so anyone wanting to camp near Horningsea should look to established, licensed campsites in the surrounding countryside rather than pitching up on riverbanks or farmland.

The terrain around the village is gently low-lying and can be soft or waterlogged underfoot, particularly close to the River Cam and its associated dykes, so campsites tend to sit on slightly firmer ground a little further from the water's edge. Cambridgeshire's wider camping scene includes a mix of simple rural sites, farm campsites and more developed touring parks, many geared towards families and those exploring Cambridge, Ely and the Fens by bike or on foot.

Late spring through early autumn is the best window for camping in this part of Cambridgeshire, when the Fens are at their driest and most hospitable and long evenings make the most of the flat, open landscape and big skies the region is known for. Outside these months, the Fens can feel bleak and exposed, with cold winds sweeping unimpeded across the open fields, so it is worth checking site opening dates carefully as many rural sites close over winter.

For those who prefer a roof over their head without giving up the outdoor feel, glamping options in the wider Cambridgeshire area, from shepherd's huts to yurts and pods, offer a comfortable way to enjoy the Fen countryside, the River Cam and the area's Roman and Saxon history without needing your own tent.