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Pagham

Shingle beaches and a wild harbour on the Sussex coast

Photo © Ian Piggott, Google Maps

Tucked onto the West Sussex coast a couple of miles west of Bognor Regis, Pagham has managed to hang onto a sleepy, unhurried character that its bigger neighbours have long since traded away. It is really two places in one: the old village around St Thomas a Becket church, with its timber-framed cottages and cricket green, and Pagham Beach, a ribbon of shingle-front bungalows and chalets that grew up in the early twentieth century, some of them originally converted from decommissioned railway carriages.

What draws most visitors, though, is the ground beneath it all. Nearly a quarter of Pagham Harbour, a Site of Special Scientific Interest and one of the largest unspoilt stretches of coastal wetland left on the South Coast, sits within the parish. Saltmarsh, mudflats, reedbed and a long shingle spit wrap around a harbour that floods and drains with the tide, and the result is a landscape that feels a world away from the amusement arcades of nearby resorts, even though Chichester and Bognor Regis are both within easy reach.

Getting to Pagham

Pagham sits just off the B2166, a couple of miles south-west of Bognor Regis and around eight miles south of Chichester, making it an easy drive from the A27 and A29. The nearest mainline station is Bognor Regis, with regular services to London Victoria via Barnham and Gatwick, and local buses connect the village to Bognor Regis and Chichester. There is no dedicated rail link into Pagham itself, so most visitors arrive by car or taxi from Bognor Regis station, and parking is available near the beach and at the harbour's Sidlesham visitor centre.

Best time to visit Pagham

Summer (June to August) brings the warmest weather for the beach and the busiest birdlife on Tern Island, while spring and fine autumn days are ideal for walking the harbour paths without the peak-season crowds. Winter has its own appeal for naturalists, as wintering wildfowl and wading birds, including large flocks of Brent geese, arrive on the mudflats between September and January. Being an exposed stretch of coast, Pagham can be breezy outside the summer months, so it suits visitors happy to pack for changeable weather in exchange for quieter beaches and dramatic winter skies.

Where to stay in Pagham

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About staying in Pagham

Pagham itself has few conventional hotels, but its location between Bognor Regis and Chichester means good options are always close at hand. In the village and along the seafront, expect mainly bed and breakfasts, guest houses and self-catering holiday lets, many overlooking the beach or within walking distance of Pagham Harbour. For a wider choice of hotel accommodation, Bognor Regis, two miles away, has a range of seafront and town-centre hotels to suit families and couples, while Chichester, around eight miles inland, offers everything from boutique townhouse hotels to larger chain options, all within easy striking distance of the coast.

Wherever you base yourself, Pagham works well as a day-trip destination from either town: the drive out takes minutes, and the harbour, beach and village pubs make for an easy change of pace from a busier seaside stay. Booking ahead is worth doing in summer, particularly around the school holidays and the village's Boxing Day pram race, when accommodation across the wider Bognor Regis area fills up quickly.

Things to Do in Pagham

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Top things to do in Pagham

Pagham rewards slow exploring more than a checklist of sights, but there is plenty to fill a day or a long weekend.

  • Pagham Harbour Local Nature Reserve (RSPB) — one of the best birdwatching sites on the South Coast, with the visitor centre at Sidlesham as a good starting point and the 1.75-mile Discovery Trail looping past the Ferry Pool. Brent geese arrive in their thousands each winter and a tern colony nests on Tern Island in summer.
  • Pagham Beach — a long shingle beach backed by low dunes and beach houses, popular for walking, sea fishing and rockpooling at low tide, with wide-open views along the coast.
  • Coastal walks to Church Norton and Selsey — footpaths trace the harbour's edge from Pagham round to Church Norton, with its ruined medieval chapel, and on towards Selsey Bill.
  • St Thomas a Becket Church — a Grade I listed parish church at the heart of the old village, notable for its early stained glass and centuries of continuous worship.
  • Pagham's Boxing Day pram race — reputedly the oldest event of its kind in the world, this fancy-dress fundraiser through the village has been a local institution for decades.
  • Bognor Regis seafront and pier — a short drive or coastal path walk away, with traditional seaside amusements, a Blue Flag beach and the Hotham Park gardens.
  • Chichester — the cathedral city is around seven miles inland, offering Roman city walls, the Chichester Festival Theatre, an art gallery and a busy Saturday market.

Where to Eat in Pagham

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Food and drink in Pagham

The village punches above its weight for pubs. The Lamb Inn, a seventeenth-century building with its original beams and fireplaces intact, serves ales alongside a full restaurant menu, while The Lion, said to date back to 1407 and once a haunt of local smugglers, offers a traditional pub menu with gluten-free and vegetarian options. The Bear Inn, an eighteenth-century former coaching inn with its own smuggling history, is another long-standing village local. For a wider spread of cafes and restaurants, Bognor Regis and Chichester are both close by.

Attractions Near Pagham

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Worth the trip — within 50 miles of Pagham.

Camping in Pagham(1)

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About camping in Pagham

Wild camping is illegal in England without the landowner's permission, so anyone wanting to camp near Pagham needs a proper site, and there are several within easy reach along this stretch of the West Sussex coast. The flat, low-lying terrain around Pagham Harbour and the surrounding villages of Sidlesham and Church Norton suits touring caravans and campervans particularly well, with a scattering of small, family-run touring and camping parks tucked among the farmland just inland from the shingle beaches. Expect a mix of grass touring pitches, static caravans and, increasingly, glamping options such as pods, bell tents and safari tents for those who want the outdoor feel without bringing their own kit.

The best camping season here runs from late spring through to early autumn, when the days are long enough to make the most of the harbour walks and the beach, and the ground is drier underfoot after winter's coastal weather. This part of the Sussex coast is exposed to onshore winds, so a pitch with some natural shelter, or a well-anchored awning, is worth seeking out outside the calmest summer weeks. Sea fishing, birdwatching and cycling the quiet lanes around the harbour are all easily done straight from a nearby campsite, and Bognor Regis and Chichester are both close enough for an evening out without a long drive back.

Because Pagham Harbour is a protected nature reserve, camping is not permitted on the reserve itself or on the beach and dunes, so it is worth checking a site's exact location before booking, particularly if direct harbour or sea views are important. Many of the touring parks in the area are geared towards a quieter, adults-welcome atmosphere as well as family pitches, so it is worth checking which suits your trip before you arrive.

Self-Catering Cottages in Pagham

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Common questions about Pagham

How many campsites are there in Pagham?

We list 1 campsites in and around Pagham, of which 1 take tents and 1 offer glamping.