Dulverton

Dulverton makes an excellent base for exploring Exmoor by car, with a good spread of accommodation from traditional coaching inns to farmhouse bed and breakfasts and self-catering cottages in the surrounding villages. Staying in the town itself means everything is within walking distance: the high street's independent shops and cafes, the National Park Centre for maps and advice, and riverside paths along the Barle leading out towards Tarr Steps. Many properties are converted stone barns or period townhouses that reflect the area's wool and tanning history, and a number of nearby farms and country houses offer larger self-catering options suited to family groups or walking parties.

Booking ahead is worthwhile, particularly during the autumn deer rut and the summer holidays, when demand for rooms across Exmoor rises sharply. For those wanting to explore further afield, bases towards Winsford, Exford or Withypool put you closer to the open moor and the best stretches of the Barle for walking and wild swimming, while staying centrally in Dulverton keeps you closest to dining options and the town's regular farmers' market. Whichever you choose, pack for changeable moorland weather and be prepared for some properties to sit down narrow lanes, as this is very much rural Exmoor rather than a large town.

Dulverton's appeal lies as much in what surrounds it as what is in the town itself. Here are some of the best reasons to visit.

• Tarr Steps — A Grade I-listed clapper bridge of enormous stone slabs spanning the River Barle, thought to be medieval or older in origin, set in a beautiful wooded valley a short drive from town.
• Dulverton Heritage Centre — A free local museum with exhibits on the town's history, including its wool and tanning trades and a detailed model of the old railway station.
• Exmoor National Park Centre — Based in Dulverton itself, with maps, walking advice and exhibits covering the whole national park.
• Walking and wild swimming on the River Barle — Riverside paths lead out from the town towards Tarr Steps, with quiet swimming spots along the way.
• Dunkery Beacon — The highest point on Exmoor and in Somerset at 519 metres, with views stretching to the Bristol Channel, Wales and Dartmoor on a clear day.
• Red deer and Exmoor pony spotting — The combes and moorland around Dulverton are prime territory for England's largest wild land mammal and its native pony breed.
• Wimbleball Lake — A reservoir a short drive away offering sailing, paddleboarding, fishing and circular walking and cycling trails.
• Fly fishing on the Barle and Exe — Both rivers are noted for wild brown trout, and day tickets are available locally.

For a small town, Dulverton has a genuinely strong food and drink scene. Woods Bar and Restaurant on Bank Square is a long-standing local favourite for seasonal West Country cooking, while The Bridge Inn and The Lion Hotel with its adjoining Tap Bar offer classic pub food and local ales. The Copper Kettle and Tantivy are popular spots for tea and cake after a morning's walk, and Tongdam brings Thai cooking to the high street. A little out of town, the historic Tarr Farm Inn near Tarr Steps is known for fine dining built around Exmoor lamb, Devon Red Ruby beef and local game. Don't miss the Dulverton Farmers' Market, held monthly from April to September, for local produce, cheeses and cider.

Exmoor's combination of open moorland, wooded river valleys and a genuine dark-sky designation makes the country around Dulverton some of the most rewarding in the West Country for camping. As in the rest of England, wild camping on Exmoor is not legal without the landowner's permission, despite the moor's wild character, so stick to licensed campsites and glamping sites, of which there are several good options within a short drive of the town. Many sit along the Barle or Exe valleys, offering pitches within walking distance of the river, while others are set higher on the moor edge with sweeping views and easier access to walking and cycling routes.

The terrain here is a mix of steep, wooded combes and open, exposed moorland, so a pitch in the valley tends to be more sheltered than one up on the tops, where weather can turn quickly even in summer. Late spring through early autumn is the best camping season, with settled weather, long daylight hours and the chance to hear red deer roaring during the September and October rut. Midsummer brings warm days for river swimming in the Barle, while a stay timed around a new moon rewards campers with exceptional stargazing, Exmoor having been the world's first International Dark Sky Reserve.

For those who prefer more comfort than a tent, Exmoor has a good choice of glamping options around Dulverton, from safari tents and shepherd's huts to converted horseboxes and yurts, many on working farms with direct access to walking trails. These sites suit visitors who want the outdoor setting and moorland views without sacrificing a proper bed and hot shower after a day on the hills, and they tend to book up quickly for the autumn rut and school holiday periods, so early booking is recommended.