Edmundbyers

Hotel choice right in Edmundbyers is small by design; this is a one-pub, one-hostel village, not a resort. The Punch Bowl Inn offers traditional rooms above its bar, ideal if you want to walk out of your front door straight onto the fells or down to Derwent Reservoir, while the YHA Edmundbyers, housed in a former Methodist chapel, is a long-standing favourite with walkers and cyclists tackling the North Pennines. For more choice, the picture-postcard village of Blanchland, a few miles over the moor, has the historic Lord Crewe Arms, a former abbey guest house with centuries of history and a well-regarded restaurant. Consett and the towns of Weardale offer a wider spread of budget and mid-range hotels and inns within a short drive, useful if you are basing yourself here for several days of walking, cycling or watersports on the reservoir. Wherever you stay, book ahead for weekends in summer, when the combination of reservoir activities and Pennine scenery draws visitors from across the North East, and note that some rural roads up onto the moor can be narrow and exposed, so allow extra time in poor weather or after dark.

• Derwent Reservoir — One of the largest inland waters in England, with sailing, windsurfing, kayaking, paddleboarding and open-water swimming run from Derwent Reservoir Sailing Club, plus a waterside trail that circles much of the shoreline.
• Blanchland — A short drive or walk over the moor brings you to this beautifully preserved 18th-century estate village, built from the stone of a dissolved 12th-century abbey, with the historic Lord Crewe Arms at its heart.
• North Pennines National Landscape — Edmundbyers sits within this vast, sparsely populated AONB, England's "last wilderness," criss-crossed by rights of way over heather moorland, blanket bog and upland hay meadows.
• Edmundbyers and Baybridge circular walk — A popular waymarked route linking the village with the hamlet of Baybridge, following the Burnhope Burn and the shore of the reservoir through classic Durham dale scenery.
• Blanchland Moor and Pennine byways — Quiet lanes and bridleways head up onto the moor from the village, popular with road cyclists and mountain bikers tackling the steep, open gradients of the North Pennines.
• St Edmund's Church — The village's parish church, with roots going back centuries, gives Edmundbyers its name and anchors the small huddle of houses around the green.
• Derwent Walk Country Park — Further downstream, a former railway line has been turned into a level, traffic-free walking and cycling trail running towards Consett and beyond, a good option for an easier family outing.

The Punch Bowl Inn is the heart of the village, a traditional stone-built pub with open fires, real ale and a restaurant serving hearty, locally-sourced food, popular with walkers off the moor and visitors to the reservoir alike. A few miles away in Blanchland, the historic Lord Crewe Arms, built from the remains of a 12th-century abbey, offers a step back in time with its priest's hole bar and roaring fires, alongside more contemporary dining. Consett, the nearest town, adds a broader range of cafes, takeaways and supermarkets for stocking up before heading back out onto the moor.

Camping around Edmundbyers means high, open North Pennines scenery rather than sheltered woodland, so come ready for changeable weather even in summer. Wild camping without the landowner's permission is not legal in England, including here in County Durham, so stick to recognised sites: Derwent Waterside Park, on the shore of Derwent Reservoir, has weekend camping pitches alongside its glamping options, sailing club and watersports centre, making it an easy base for a mix of activity and relaxation. Elsewhere in the dale, small farm-based campsites and caravan sites offer simple pitches with views over the moor, generally on a seasonal basis from Easter through to early autumn, when the ground is drier and the days are long enough to make the most of the surrounding fells.

The best months for camping here run from May to September, when heather moorland is at its most spectacular, reservoir-based activities such as swimming, kayaking and paddleboarding are running, and the long northern daylight hours suit evening walks along the shoreline or up onto Blanchland Moor. Even so, this is genuine upland England: expect cooler nights than lowland sites, pack for rain regardless of season, and check any exposed pitch is well away from the reservoir's edge in case of rising water levels after heavy rain.

For those who prefer a roof over their heads without giving up the outdoor feel, glamping pods and similar accommodation are available at Derwent Waterside Park, combining reservoir views with proper beds and heating, a popular middle ground between a tent and a hotel room. Whichever option you choose, the pull of camping near Edmundbyers is the same: big skies, quiet moorland, and a reservoir that offers something to do whatever the weather.