Ullapool

Ullapool sits on a spit of land jutting into Loch Broom, its neat grid of whitewashed houses laid out in 1788 by the British Fisheries Society as a purpose-built herring port. Unlike many Highland settlements that grew up haphazardly around a castle or a crossing point, Ullapool was planned from the start, and that orderly street pattern still gives the town its distinctive, almost coastal-village-in-a-different-country feel. Fishing boats still work out of the harbour, though these days they share the water with the CalMac ferry to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis, yachts on their way up the west coast, and boat trips heading out to the Summer Isles.

The town punches well above its weight for somewhere with a population of under 1,500. It has a full-time bookshop that doubles as a hotel, a nationally known folk and arts venue, several excellent seafood kitchens, and a setting that regularly stops first-time visitors in their tracks: steep-sided mountains rising straight from the loch, the jagged outline of the Summer Isles on the horizon, and light that changes by the hour. Ullapool works equally well as a short stopover between Inverness and the ferry, or as a base in its own right for several days of walking, wildlife-watching and simply looking at the view.

Wester Ross, the wider area around Ullapool, is one of the least populated parts of mainland Britain, and the town is very much the region's hub — its only shop of any real size, its only bank, its only secondary school. That makes it a genuinely useful base: everything from Corrieshalloch Gorge to the beaches of Achiltibuie is within comfortable driving distance, and the town itself has enough going on, particularly in summer, to fill an evening without a car.

Top things to do in Ullapool

Ullapool rewards a slow visit as much as a busy one — here is where to start.

• Summer Isles boat trips — Half-day cruises run from the harbour out among this scattered archipelago, past seal colonies and seabird cliffs, with a good chance of dolphins or a white-tailed eagle overhead.
• Ullapool Museum — Housed in a former Telford parliamentary church on West Argyle Street, the museum tells the story of the planned fishing town, Highland emigration to Canada, and the herring boom and bust.
• Corrieshalloch Gorge — A National Trust for Scotland reserve a short drive south-east of the town, where a Victorian suspension bridge crosses a mile-long box canyon above the thundering Falls of Measach.
• Ullapool Hill — A well-marked path climbs directly from the edge of town to open moorland above the loch, giving a walk of an hour or two with sweeping views over the harbour and out to the Summer Isles.
• The Ceilidh Place — Part hotel, part bookshop, part music venue, this long-standing institution hosts regular folk sessions, author events and ceilidhs, and is worth visiting even if you are not staying there.
• Rhue Lighthouse — A short coastal walk north of town leads to this small automated lighthouse, a favourite spot for watching the sun go down over the water.
• Achiltibuie and the Coigach peninsula — A single-track road winds out past Loch Lurgainn to this remote crofting community, with the Hydroponicum garden and views across to the Summer Isles.
• Loch Broom Brewery and local galleries — Several small studios and craft workshops around the town sell work by local artists, alongside a growing number of independent food and drink producers.

Getting to Ullapool

Ullapool has no railway station of its own; the nearest is Garve, around 30 minutes away by road, on the Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh line. Most visitors travel via Inverness, which has direct trains from London King's Cross or Euston (around eight hours, usually with a change, or take the Caledonian Sleeper overnight from London Euston direct to Inverness). From Inverness, the A835 runs north-west through Garve and Braemore Junction to Ullapool, a drive of about 1 hour 15 minutes through increasingly dramatic scenery.

By road, Ullapool is roughly 3 hours from Glasgow and 2 hours from Inverness, and sits on the North Coast 500 touring route, so expect the roads to be busiest in July and August. There is a long-stay car park by the harbour and further parking around the pier, though spaces fill quickly on ferry sailing days. Caledonian MacBrayne runs the ferry to Stornoway on Lewis, a crossing of about 2 hours 45 minutes, with up to three sailings a day in summer — book vehicle spaces well ahead if you are bringing a car.

Best time to visit Ullapool

Spring (April to May) brings longer days and wildflowers to the verges, with the hills still holding snow and the Summer Isles boat trips starting up again after winter; it is a quieter, cooler time to visit before the main season begins. Summer (June to August) is by far the busiest period, with near-24-hour daylight at midsummer, the best chance of calm seas for boat trips, and the fullest calendar of events, including the Loopallu music festival in September — but book accommodation and ferry crossings well in advance. Autumn (September to October) offers a good balance: settled spells of weather, autumn colour inland, and noticeably thinner crowds once the school holidays end. Winter (November to March) is quiet and often wild, with short days and the possibility of road closures over higher routes in bad weather, but also some of the most dramatic light and, on clear nights, a chance of the aurora over the loch — many businesses reduce hours or close for part of this period, so check ahead.

Where to stay in Ullapool

The town centre, along Shore Street, Argyle Street and Quay Street, puts you within walking distance of the harbour, restaurants and the ferry terminal, and suits anyone without a car or keen to walk to dinner. Garve Road, on the southern edge of town, has a cluster of larger hotels and guest houses with loch views and easier parking, a good option for a first or last night before or after the ferry. For a quieter base, the surrounding countryside — around Ardmair to the north or Rhue to the west — offers self-catering cottages and B&Bs with sea views a short drive from the town's amenities. Whichever you choose, book well ahead for July, August and ferry-connected stays, as Ullapool's bed stock is small relative to its popularity on the North Coast 500.

Food and drink in Ullapool

Seafood landed at the harbour is the obvious draw: langoustines, scallops and mussels appear on menus across town, often the same day they are caught. The Ceilidh Place combines a café, restaurant and bar with its bookshop and hosts regular live music, while the Arch Inn and the Ferry Boat Inn both serve seafood-led menus in traditional harbourside settings. The Seafood Shack, a converted horsebox by the harbour, has built a strong reputation for langoustines and fish and chips served from a hatch, usually with a queue to match. West Coast Delicatessen and several small bakeries supply picnic provisions for day trips, and a farmers' market and craft stalls set up periodically through the summer season, alongside the whisky and gin selections found in the town's bars.