Kirkby Stephen

Kirkby Stephen makes a fine base for exploring the Upper Eden Valley, with accommodation ranging from traditional coaching inns on the main street to farmhouse B&Bs scattered across the surrounding countryside. Many properties here are well used to Coast to Coast walkers, offering drying rooms, hearty breakfasts and flexible check-in times for those arriving on foot, but the town works just as well as a base for drivers exploring the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and the western Yorkshire Dales. Expect honest, comfortable stays rather than luxury spa hotels, with a handful of smarter country house options in the surrounding villages for those wanting a bit more indulgence after a day on the fells. Stone-built B&Bs along the main street put you within walking distance of the church, the market square and the town's cafes and pubs, while properties out towards Winton, Nateby or Mallerstang trade a little convenience for quieter surroundings and better views of Wild Boar Fell and the Nine Standards. Booking ahead is strongly advised in the walking season from May to September, when Coast to Coast traffic can fill the town's limited rooms well in advance, and again in autumn when the surrounding hills draw walkers chasing the changing colours. Whatever you choose, you will rarely be more than a short walk from a decent pub meal and a warm welcome.

Kirkby Stephen punches well above its size for a town of under 2,000 people, with a genuine mix of heritage, walking and railway interest packed into a small area.

• Nine Standards Rigg — Nine mysterious stone cairns, some over ten feet tall, stand on the summit of Hartley Fell at 662 metres, overlooking the town. Nobody is entirely sure why they were built, but the walk up from Kirkby Stephen along the Coast to Coast route is one of the finest short hikes in the North Pennines, with views stretching to the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales.
• The Parish Church of St Stephen — Known locally as the "Cathedral of the Dales" for its size and grandeur, the church houses the tenth-century Loki Stone, a Viking carving that is one of only two of its kind in Europe.
• Kirkby Stephen West railway station — Part of the famous Settle-Carlisle line, which opened in 1875 and remains one of Britain's great scenic railway journeys. The old station buildings, about a mile and a half from town, are lovingly maintained by the Stainmore Railway Company, which runs heritage rolling stock and occasional steam events.
• The Coast to Coast Walk — Kirkby Stephen is a classic stopover on Wainwright's legendary long-distance path, and even a short stretch of the route out of town gives a real taste of Pennine walking, from riverside meadows to open moorland.
• Stenkrith Park and the Devil's Bridge — A short stroll from the town centre leads to Stenkrith Park, where the River Eden has carved dramatic potholes and channels through the limestone, overlooked by the seventeenth-century Frank's Bridge and the older Devil's Bridge.
• Winton Park Gardens — Just outside town, these attractive gardens sit beneath the dramatic backdrop of Wild Boar Fell and Mallerstang Edge, popular for a gentle walk with sweeping views.
• Mallerstang and the Eden Valley — The valley running south from Kirkby Stephen towards Wild Boar Fell is one of the least-visited and most beautiful corners of Cumbria, with quiet lanes perfect for cycling or a scenic drive.

Kirkby Stephen has a solid range of places to eat for a town of its size. The Pennine Hotel on the Market Square serves everything from bar snacks to a full three-course dinner, while the Black Bull is another long-standing option for a proper pub meal. For something simpler, the Mulberry Bush and the White Hare Cafe are popular daytime spots in the town centre, and Berry, Grape & Grain combines a licensed cafe with a wine and deli shop. Archway Fish and Chips and Coast to Coast Fish and Chips both serve the classic seaside staple, handy after a long day on the fells. Just outside town, Owen's Farm Shop at Sandwath Farm serves hearty meals alongside its local produce, and nearby villages add further choices, including the Black Swan and King's Head in Ravenstonedale and the Inn at Brough.

Kirkby Stephen sits at the meeting point of the North Pennines and the Yorkshire Dales, and the countryside around it offers some genuinely wild camping country, from riverside meadows along the Eden to the high, open moorland of Hartley Fell and Nine Standards Rigg. It is worth being clear from the outset that wild camping without the landowner's permission is not legal in England, unlike in Scotland, so anyone hoping to pitch up on the open fell needs to seek permission first or stick to a proper campsite. Fortunately there are good options nearby, from simple farm campsites welcoming Coast to Coast walkers to more established sites with better facilities in the villages around the town.

The terrain here is properly Pennine: steep, exposed and quick to change, so a night on the tops should only be attempted by experienced campers with the right kit, even in summer. Down in the valley, sheltered sites along the Eden or in villages like Nateby and Ravenstonedale offer a gentler introduction, with easy access to walking routes without the full exposure of the high fells. The best camping season runs from late spring through early autumn, broadly May to September, when the ground is drier underfoot and the long evenings make the most of the valley's big skies; the Pennines can see snow and severe weather well into spring and again from October onwards, so shoulder-season trips need careful planning. For those who would rather skip the tent altogether, a growing number of glamping pods, shepherd's huts and camping barns have appeared around the Eden Valley in recent years, giving a taste of the outdoors with a proper bed and, often, a wood burner for cold Pennine nights.