Hotels in North York Moors

Choosing a base in the North York Moors comes down to one decision: coast or moor. The park is only about 35 miles across, but the roads are slow, the moor tops are exposed and a wet Tuesday makes a 40-minute drive feel much longer. Working out which half you will spend most of your time in saves a lot of pointless mileage.

If you want good food, easy village walks and abbey ruins, base yourself in the south-west around Helmsley. It has the highest concentration of quality accommodation in the park, from spa hotels on the High Street to Michelin-starred inns in the surrounding villages, and Rievaulx, Duncombe Park and the Cleveland Way all begin within a couple of miles. Pickering, at the southern edge, is less refined but better placed for a mixed itinerary, with the steam railway, Dalby Forest and the coast all within reach and a useful supply of guest houses at sensible prices.

Whitby is the right call for anyone who wants somewhere to walk to in the evening. It has the widest range of rooms in the park, from Georgian townhouse hotels on the West Cliff to country houses a few miles inland, and it is the only place here where you can eat late without planning. The trade-off is summer crowds and difficult parking. Quieter coastal alternatives at Robin Hood's Bay, Sandsend and Ravenscar suit long-distance walkers and anyone who values a sea view over a choice of restaurants.

For the moors themselves, Eskdale villages such as Danby and Egton Bridge put you on the railway line and close to open heather, and they tend to be where the best-value bed and breakfasts are. Wherever you land, book early for August and for the steam railway's gala weekends, ask whether dinner is served on the night you arrive, and check parking — several of the best inns sit on narrow market squares.