Kirkby Thore

Kirkby Thore itself has only a small handful of places to stay, mostly farmhouse bed and breakfasts and self-catering cottages, which suits travellers after a quiet, unhurried base rather than a resort-style stay. The village's position directly on the A66 makes it a genuinely convenient stopover for anyone crossing the Pennines between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales, or heading further east toward Durham and Newcastle, without adding much of a detour. For a wider choice of hotels and guesthouses, Appleby-in-Westmorland lies only a few miles south along the River Eden and offers everything from traditional coaching inns to period townhouse accommodation, all within easy reach of its castle, cobbled Boroughgate and Tuesday market. Penrith, about eight miles west, has a larger selection again, including hotels geared toward Lake District visitors making use of the nearby M6 junction, plus a good spread of independent guesthouses in the town centre.

Whichever base is chosen, the Eden Valley's appeal lies in its position between two very different landscapes: the honeypot fells of the Lake District to the west, reached in well under an hour, and the wilder, far quieter moors of the North Pennines rising immediately to the east. Staying around Kirkby Thore means avoiding peak-season Lake District accommodation prices while still being close enough for a day trip, and it puts walkers and history enthusiasts within easy striking distance of High Cup Nick, Acorn Bank and the Roman remains scattered along the old Maiden Way. Anyone visiting in June should book well ahead, since Appleby Horse Fair draws large numbers of visitors and fills accommodation across the wider area.

The village itself rewards a slow wander, and the surrounding Eden Valley opens up walking, history and some of England's finest limestone scenery within a short drive.

• Bravoniacum Roman fort site — the earthwork remains of this Roman cavalry fort and its vicus lie just outside the village on the line of the Maiden Way; a scheduled monument that once garrisoned auxiliary cavalry defending the northern frontier.
• St Michael's Church — the parish church, with roots likely stretching back to the Anglo-Scandinavian period when "Kirkby" first entered the village's name, anchors the older part of the settlement.
• River Eden and Trout Beck — gentle riverside footpaths follow the water through the village, good for an easy stroll or a picnic away from the A66.
• Appleby-in-Westmorland — the handsome county town of old Westmorland, a few miles south along the Eden, with its castle, cobbled Boroughgate and famous horse fair each June.
• North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty — the high moorland to the east rises steeply from the valley floor, laced with old lead-mining tracks and some of the darkest skies in England for stargazing.
• High Cup Nick — a dramatic glacial U-shaped valley near Dufton, roughly half an hour's drive away, and one of the most striking walks in the North Pennines.
• Acorn Bank — a National Trust property near Temple Sowerby with walled gardens, orchards and watermill walks, a short hop from Kirkby Thore.
• Settle-Carlisle railway — one of Britain's great scenic rail lines runs through the valley, stopping at Appleby and Kirkby Stephen for car-free days out.

The Bridge, a bistro-style restaurant on the A66 through the village, serves British dishes from fish and chips to pasta and has built a solid local reputation for generous, well-cooked plates in an unpretentious setting. The village has seen pubs come and go over the years, reflecting the wider pressures on rural Cumbrian locals, so it is worth checking current opening hours before a visit. For a wider choice, Appleby-in-Westmorland offers several traditional pubs and cafes around Boroughgate, while Penrith's market town centre has a good spread of restaurants, delis and coffee shops for a bigger night out.

Camping around Kirkby Thore means making the most of the Eden Valley's gentler, more sheltered terrain compared with the exposed fells further west, though the same rule applies across England: wild camping without the landowner's permission is not legal, so a recognised site or a landowner's explicit consent is needed before pitching up. The valley floor around the village is relatively flat and low-lying, following the River Eden and its tributary becks, which makes for straightforward touring caravan and tent pitches, while the ground rises quickly to the east into the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, where a scattering of small, more rugged sites sit closer to walking country. Nearby Appleby-in-Westmorland and the villages along the valley add a handful of further options, from simple certificated sites to family-run campsites with better facilities.

Late spring to early autumn is the most reliable season, when the ground is firmer, the days longer, and the fells at their most walkable; the North Pennines in particular can turn cold, wet and boggy well into what feels like the height of summer elsewhere, so it pays to come prepared regardless of the forecast. Midges can be a nuisance near the becks and wooded riverside stretches in high summer, easing off by September. For those wanting the outdoor setting without the tent-pitching and cooking, glamping options in the wider Eden Valley run from shepherd's huts and wooden pods to safari tents, offering proper beds and often a wood-burner, which suits the area's reputation for clear, dark skies and chilly nights once the sun goes down. Whatever the choice, the North Pennines' status as one of England's darkest areas makes an evening spent outside a highlight, weather permitting, and a good torch and warm layers are always worth packing even in July.