Totnes

Totnes has never quite done things the conventional way, and its accommodation reflects that. Rather than a run of identikit hotels, you'll find Dartington Hall Hotel, a working estate with real history behind it, sitting alongside old coaching inns like the Royal Seven Stars Hotel, The Bull Inn and the King William IV. Add in a scattering of pubs with rooms such as the Hunters Lodge Inn and Live and Let Live Inn, farmhouse stays like Kerswell Farmhouse, and a converted spot like Church Barn, and you get a picture of a town that people visit for its character rather than its convenience.

That mix suits Totnes, a hilly market town on the River Dart known for its independent, alternative streak. Most visitors base themselves in or close to the town centre, within reach of the shops, the river and the steep main street, though those staying at Dartington Hall or out at Gatcombe Park Farm campsite get a quieter, more rural version of the same area.

History is easy to find here. Totnes Castle looks down over the town from its Norman motte, while Berry Pomeroy Castle, a short way out, is one of Devon's more atmospheric ruins. Families tend to gravitate towards Totnes Rare Breeds Farm and Woodlands Family Theme Park, both good for a full day out, while the Totnes Mystery Treasure Trail gives a more low-key way to explore the streets. China Blue adds a different kind of stop for those after something less historical.

Eating out is one of the town's real strengths, with a restaurant scene that runs to nearly forty places and rarely repeats itself. Circa and Centre offer more contemporary dining, Brioche Restaurant and Brutus Stone Kitchen bring a French and modern-British edge, and Cafe Mumbai covers a different craving entirely. For something more relaxed, Bruto Lounge and Anne of Cleves both have their followings, and the Friend's of St Mary's Tuesday cafe is a nice reminder that Totnes still runs on community as much as commerce.

Whether you're drawn by the castles, the food, or simply the town's reputation for doing its own thing, the range of places to stay means you can pick your version of a Totnes visit: grand and historic at Dartington Hall, pub-and-pint traditional at one of the town's inns, or tucked away on a farm just outside it.