Camping in the Brecon Beacons

Camping in the Brecon Beacons means accepting that it rains here, often and hard. The hills catch weather coming in off the Atlantic and annual rainfall on the tops is several times what falls on the coast. Sites in the Usk valley and around Brecon sit on reasonably free-draining river terraces, but higher ground and old pasture can hold water for days after heavy rain. A groundsheet, a decent flysheet and pegs that will hold in soft ground are worth more than any luxury.

Most established campsites are strung along the valleys rather than on the hills: the Usk between Brecon and Crickhowell, the Taff Fechan valley north of Merthyr Tydfil, and the lanes around Llangorse Lake. That means level pitches, good access and generally sheltered ground, with the hills a short drive or walk away. Sites near the A470 and the main trailheads book up early for summer weekends.

Wild camping is not permitted as of right in the national park. Around seventy per cent of the land is privately owned, and legally you need the landowner's permission. In practice, discreet high-level camping above the wall line is often tolerated if you arrive late, leave early, camp in ones and twos, light no fires and leave nothing behind. Never assume it is allowed near the honeypot summits, where the park authority actively discourages it.

The practical season runs from Easter to the end of September, with May, June and September offering the best balance of weather, daylight and space. Many sites close from November to March. Bring warm layers whatever the month: clear nights on the valley floor can drop close to freezing well into May, and midges appear near still water in high summer.

Glamping has spread quickly here, with pods, safari tents and shepherd's huts on many farms, and it makes a sensible compromise if you want the dark skies without the risk of a soaked tent. The park is an International Dark Sky Reserve, so on a clear night the stars alone justify the trip.