Hotels in Edinburgh

Choosing where to base yourself in Edinburgh matters more than in most British cities, because the topography is steep and the character changes sharply within a few hundred metres. The good news is that the historic centre is small enough that no sensible choice leaves you stranded.

First-time visitors on a short break should generally pay the premium for the Old Town or the eastern New Town. Being able to walk back from the castle, a restaurant or a late show without thinking about buses is worth real money over two or three nights. The trade-off is noise: streets around the Grassmarket and Cowgate stay busy well past midnight, so ask for a room at the back.

Couples after something quieter usually do better in the New Town proper, around Charlotte Square, Heriot Row or the West End near Palmerston Place. These are handsome Georgian streets, residential in feel, with the shops of George Street and the galleries a short flat walk away. Stockbridge suits the same brief at slightly lower prices and with more of a neighbourhood atmosphere.

Families tend to be happiest south of the centre in Bruntsfield or Marchmont, close to the Meadows for running about, or out at Portobello for the beach. Walkers heading for the Pentlands should look at the southern suburbs, where you can be on the hills within twenty minutes. Anyone whose trip revolves around eating should simply stay in Leith.

Prices swing dramatically by season. A mid-range double that costs £110 in February will routinely pass £300 during the Fringe in August and over Hogmanay, and the better properties sell out for those dates six to twelve months ahead. May, June and September offer the best balance of weather and value. If you are visiting in August and have not booked by the previous autumn, plan on staying further out and using the tram or a park and ride. Parking is scarce and expensive in the centre, so if you are driving, check whether your hotel actually has spaces before you commit.